How To Make Your Own Butcher Block

How To Make Your Own Butcher Block – Swap out dated laminate for a classic butcher block countertop. Unlike stone or solid surface, butcher block can be crafted in a basement or garage workshop, making it the perfect DIY project to completely transform your kitchen on a budget.

This cottage style features built-in shelving cabinets that house cookbooks and kitchen utensils. Butcher block countertops and beadboard cabinets give this large, open kitchen an inviting look.

How To Make Your Own Butcher Block

Measure the sections of the kitchen counter using a tape measure. Note the measurements and transfer them to the butcher block. Mark the cut line with the pencil (Picture 1). Place the boards on saw benches or between two work surfaces as you cut each section of butcher block. Squeeze the straight edge along the cut line to allow the width of the circular saw blade and saw guard (Picture 2). A clamping straight edge can be purchased or made with a scrap piece of straight edge wood and clamps. Cut along the line with the circular saw (Picture 3). When cutting many pieces of similar size, label them to avoid confusion (Picture 4). Hint: For irregularly shaped meter sections, existing meters can be removed and used as templates.

Building My Own Butcher Block Kitchen Island

Countertop edges can be left straight or routed for a premium, tailored look and softened corners. To mill the front edge, clamp a flat plank along the front of the bench and allow enough width to accommodate the milling plate (Picture 1). Use a compound miter to make sure the card is clamped evenly. Never clamp directly into the worktop as this can collapse the wood. Always use a small piece of wood to protect the surface. Make a pass with the router fitted with a large Roman ogee bit to remove some of the wood. Reposition the straight edge and tighten back another 1/4″. Make a second pass with the cutter equipped with the same insert. After the second pass, remove the straight edge and clamps. On the last pass, this insert’s bearing will move along the spindle. a straight edge is not needed (Picture 2).

Cut the two pieces to size as you put the two bench pieces together to create an L shape. Snap together as they would when attached, and then clamp both pieces to the work surface to hold them firmly in place (Picture 1). If there is a gap, it may be necessary to cut one or both pieces with a circular saw and straight edge to get a straight line and a nice, tight fit. Once interlocked, orient the (optional) decorative edge as outlined above. This will involve working one side at a time and moving the grippers and straight edge. Since most islands and/or peninsulas are larger than the standard counter depth, it will be necessary to connect the two widths together. Trim off the excess width and length of the pieces to be joined, leaving a few inches of excess width to be trimmed to make the joining edges perfectly flat. Take the opposite pieces as they will be joined to see if there are any gaps; if there are gaps, use a straightedge and circular saw to get both sides perfectly straight. Once cut, put the pieces back together. If they are flush, take the smallest width of the bench and clamp it perpendicular to the pocket hole attachment. Drill down the underside of the bench to be joined to the other piece (Picture 2). Put two screw holes every 8-10 inches. Turn both parts of the bench wrong side up and clamp them tightly together with the two pipe clamps. Insert the 2-1/2″ screws into the pocket holes (Picture 3). If desired, mill the exposed edges of the island/peninsula.

If you are purchasing a new sink, a template can be added. If not, the size of the existing sink should be taken and transported to the desired place in the butcher block. Trace the template with a pencil. Make sure it is placed square with the counter and is in the proper position for the plumbing. Drill several holes in the marked area large enough to accommodate the jigsaw blade. For a bottom-mounted sink, insert the jigsaw blade into the hole and cut approximately 1/4″-1/2″ inside line. For the flush sink with a lip to cover the cut, cut directly on the line and proceed to step 8.

Transfer the template to a 1/4-inch piece of MDF. Cut with the jigsaw and smooth the inside edges (Picture 1). Clamp the template on the counter, line it by drawing the cut line. Use a router with flush bearing on the shank side Bit and let the bit run along the template. The template can be used for the entire sink hole or just the corners (Picture 2), while the straight edge board can be used for straight lines (Picture 3). Work in small sections and reposition the grapples Once the top edge of the sink hole is fully oriented, turn the counter over, opposite side up.

How To Finish Butcher Block Countertop: Seal, Oil Or Epoxy?

With the machine upside down, replace the router bits with one end side bed-aligned trim bit. Run the router around the sink hole to cut through the rest of the material (Picture 1). Turn the counter over again so the right side is facing up. If desired, use a small round bit to knock down the rim of the sink hole (Picture 2).

Measure and mark the desired location for the faucet (Picture 1). Use the appropriately sized drill (Picture 2) and/or Forstner bits (Picture 3) to drill holes in the marked location. Drop the spout into the holes to ensure proper fit.

Press the wood filler into any hole with your finger (Picture 1). Wipe off excess with a clean, slightly damp cloth (Picture 2). Let it dry. Sand the surface of the bench with an orbital sander, starting from 150 grit and gradually up to 220 grit (Picture 3). The countertop should be smooth after sanding is properly completed. Hand sand the oriented and exposed edges.

Remove dust with a soft cotton cloth, tack cloth or vacuum brush attachment. Wipe the entire counter surface with mineral spirits with a clean cotton cloth (Picture 1). This will remove any remaining dust and also reveal any imperfections (unsanded excess filler, sanding marks, etc.) that will appear with the surface treatment. Fix the flaws and clean the dust again. Clean the work area to make it as dust-free as possible.

How To Cut, Seal And Install Butcher Block Countertops

Allow the powder to settle before applying the finish. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for applying the finish (Picture 2). Schedule 7-10 days to apply coats and wait for curing times before installation. Hint: There are many surfaces that can be applied for a butcher-block countertop, depending on how the countertops will be used. If the counter is to be used as a cutting and food preparation surface, apply food-safe oil such as hemp or mineral oil. If a more durable, water-resistant surface is desired, use a product that is made to penetrate like oil but protects, such as polyurethane. Conventional polyurethane is not recommended as it sits on the surface and will blister or peel over time. For an even more durable and waterproof surface, use a marine polish made for yachts and sailboats.

Remove the old counter, sink and faucet and slide the new counter into place. Secure the counter by threading the screws through the hardware on the underside of the cabinets with 1-1/4″ wood screws (Picture 1). Install the sink and faucet according to the manufacturer’s instructions (Picture 2). For L-shaped sections, place both pieces on a flat surface. 2 1/ Insert the 4″ pocket hole screw into the pre-drilled pockets (Picture 3). Flip the section over and slide it into place in the cabinets. It may be necessary to use shims between the counter and the cabinets, especially in large sections, to align the countertops. Lightly snap the shims into place until the bench is level and scrape off the excess with the utility knife (Picture 4). Tip: If walls are sloping or not square, it may be necessary to use caulk or trim to fill or seal gaps. It’s also a good idea to use a silicone sealant between the countertop and the wall behind the sink to prevent leaks.

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