How To Build Hog Wire Deck RailingAdvertisement
How To Build Hog Wire Deck Railing – Hi friend! So last week I shared with you the demolition of my old deck railing (How to Remove a Deck or Porch Railing: Demolition Tips). Let me tell you, it felt so good to see the old dilapidated rails. OMG!
I could finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. This week we are building and installing the new deck rails. I took the inspiration for the design of these railings from pig wire rails that I saw on Pinterest. The problem was extremely expensive pig wire panels. One panel can cost $40-80. That would seriously put me on my peanut-sized budget.
How To Build Hog Wire Deck Railing
So I developed a solution using regular chicken wire. Yes, that’s true. For this deck railing we will use cheap fencing wire that comes in a roll. And for my deck size I didn’t need a whole $50 roll. (Where’s the exploding head emoji when I need it?)
Hardscaping 101: Hog Wire Fence
In my case since I’ve been installing the posts the old posts where we slotted into the 4×4 to make it so it could rest on the floor joist and lock into place.
Mark the center of the 4×4 posts. Using 2″ spacer blocks (4×4 cut to 2″) place the 2×4 bottom rail on the block and screw it into place at an angle.
When it came time to install the top rail to the deck railing, I discovered a design flaw. If the top 2×4 rail was placed upright the rail cap would not have enough space under it. Over time this can lead to complacency.
So we turned the tables. Lay the top real flat, the top of the board 3 inches from the top of the 4×4 posts.
Safe Deck Railings Archives
Now that the top rail is flat and in place place the rail cover over the rail. This can be done one of two ways: you can cut the board between each 4×4 post or you can slot the opening for each 4×4 and run the board all the way around.
I recommend running the board all the way around and notching the openings for the posts. This will create a smoother finished look.
A chisel comes in really handy during this step because you want the rail cap to be as singed as possible.
Do not overtighten any of the screws, especially the ones at the top. If the screws are too deep it can create puddles of water and cause the wood to wear out faster than usual.
Diy Fence And Gate Plans. Featuring Wild Hog Black Metal Railing Panels
The railing cap should be flush with the inside of the deck and have a 2 inch overhang on the outside of the deck.
OK now it’s time to make the wire mesh panels. This is a relatively straight assembly. I made it so you don’t need a router or dado blades.
Screw the 2x2s together. The height of the grid panels is 29 inches. The width is determined over the entire width of the deck board. The width of the stringer board is the distance between 4×4 posts (the deck opening) minus 6 inches. So if the opening between the posts is 60 inches, the stringer board should be 54 inches wide.
Ok so now that you know how long you need to cut each 2×2 it’s time to get on with assembling the panel. Using a staple gun, fasten the fence to the 2×2 frame. Pull it tight to prevent any slack.
In. X 72 In. Wild Hog Black Metal Railing Panel (5 Pack) 36whb5pk
Use a hammer to secure the nail in any loose pins. Cut small strips from the 2×6 boards using a table saw of a rail saw. These strips will be used to cover clamps and the edges of the fence. Use a nailer with galvanized nails to nail the strips in place.
Space the wire board 3 inches in between the two posts. Screw it into place from above and below.
With new pressure treated wood you don’t want to paint or stain it right away. Wait 3 to 4 weeks before applying stain or paint.
This new railing completely changes the feel and look of my deck. I used to have the worst backyard in the neighborhood. LOL No seriously, I saw looks there. Hahaha!
Hog Wire Fence
Stay tuned as I continue my deck renovation. Did you miss the demolition? Check it out in all its glory.
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You’ll Go Hog Wild For This Railing!
Want to add some flair to your patio/terrace? Learn how to make these wire panels for your next railing. Nelson Treehouse & Supply has used these railings on treehouses across America. Now we want to teach you how!
Before diving into any woodworking project, it’s best to set yourself up for success. Adding a sketch on paper will help you visually understand what you will be building, and provide a place to record measurements and important information later!
The hogwire board will be held in place using the 2×2. To achieve this, you will need Dado to release a channel. The nature of the hogwire prevents us from channeling the 2×2 dead center. The actual dimension of the 2×2 is 1.5 inches. So you will set the fence on your table saw with 3/4 inch to the outside of the dado blade. Next, set the height to 1/2″, this will allow plenty of room to lock in the hogwire board. Once your blade is set, go ahead and rip the 2×2!
Your 4×4 posts are attached to the deck at the base, this is where you can pull your measure. In this case we land at 40″. Now is a good time to write down your measurements on the preliminary sketch. Subtract the 3″ gap on each side, along with the vertical 2x2s. This gives us 31″ for our horizontal 2×2 frame. We Knowing that our 4×4 posts are 36″ tall. So subtracting the 3″ gap along the top and bottom, along with our horizontal 2×4 posts, lands us at 27″ for our vertical 2x2s.
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Now that you’ve cut your 2×2 to length, it’s time to assemble the frame! Make sure the dado cut on your vertical 2×2 lines up with the dado cut on your horizontal 2×2 (see image above). Use a drill and countersink to make pilot holes, if you skip this step there is a good chance your 2×2 will split! Then secure your frame with 9×3 flathead screws.
Visually, it is best to center your hogwire within the wood frame. Measure the inside size of the wood frame, and add 1″ (=1/2″ dado on both sides) to the horizontal and vertical measurements. Next, strategically cut the hogwire to size so it will fit in the center of your wood frame.
You can see now what the hogwire will be likeAdvertisement