Can I Build My Own Kitchen Cabinets

Can I Build My Own Kitchen Cabinets – Two years ago, my husband built Shaker style cabinets in our butler’s pantry right off our kitchen for less than $200. In this honest review I will tell you how they are holding up after 24 months of use…

In my five and a half years of blogging, my DIY Kitchen Cabinets tutorial has been one of my most popular blog posts to date.

Can I Build My Own Kitchen Cabinets

I’ve had a few internet trolls leave small comments on this cabinet tutorial, mostly claiming that the project is too good to be true and that it’s impossible to build legit, sturdy cabinets for under $200.

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The information provided by the skeptics suggests that the dispute mainly stems from the materials we used for the cabinet doors.

Building our door front panels out of plywood (which is what kept costs to a minimum) really got some people’s panties in a bunch…

Were the haters right? Could you really get away with using such cheap materials for something as important and utilitarian as cabinets?

Well…I won’t lie to you guys. The actual weight of the cabinet doors seems slightly lighter than solid wood cabinets.

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If you’re sensitive to tactile issues, you may not be able to overcome the light weight of the door.

However, if the weight of the door is not taken into account, the functionality of the door has proven its stability over the past two years. We really haven’t had any problems with the cabinets.

However, to make this review as open as possible, I will show you two areas of the cabinets that show some wear and tear…

In the picture above you will see a small dent in the front panel of the door. It was actually a pre-existing plywood defect.

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Unfortunately for us, I didn’t catch this spot until I started painting the cabinets. And at that point I just said f**k it- painted right over it because I’m impatient like that.

Considering that this door was so cheap to build, rebuilding and replacing it really wouldn’t be that big of a deal (if we really wanted to). Even a simpler solution could probably use wood filler to solve this problem.

Moving on to the next problem area, you’ll see how some of the paint has been scraped off, exposing the white primer I originally used to prep the door.

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From my extensive experience with painted cabinets, I can say that chipping is simply inevitable. If the cabinets were painted a lighter color, it wouldn’t be as noticeable.

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However, what I’ve done in the past with my painted kitchen cabinets (which were professionally replaced) is sporadic touch-ups. But….

Considering this is the butler’s pantry and an area most guests don’t see, I’ve let it slide for now.

In the end, I’m very happy with how these cabinets have held up. Using plywood for the face panel was a bit of a risk, but these babies have served their purpose and look great on me!

No… this tutorial is not too good to be true; and no… you don’t have to spend tens of thousands of dollars on new cabinets!

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If you want to see how we built DIY wood countertops on cabinets for under $50, click here.

P.S. If you found this post helpful, it would mean so much if you could share it with a friend or on social media!

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I always find it fascinating how people hate others. It usually comes from someone being unhappy with themselves and needing to give to others. I PERSONALLY find most of your posts very fascinating and full of wonderful information AND I LOVE your “colorful” language 😉 I can’t wait to share this article with my husband who built me ​​a pantry in our last home and is now trying figure out how to do it in this. Sending hugs and good vibes YOUR way Erica, make it the best day ever!

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Thanks so much for the kind words of support, Jacquie! Hope this helps your husband make sense of it all. I hope you have a great day. kisses and hugs

It’s like having your own interior designer, life coach (and drinking buddy) for FREE. Live fabulous AF – on a budget. Build your own kitchen wall cabinets using this free template. It is easy to adjust to different sizes and styles.

No longer are you limited to standard cabinet sizes or have to pay a premium for odd sizes or increased heights. In this template, we’ll show you how to easily customize and build wall cabinets for a fraction of the cost of buying them.

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This plan is designed to work with our frameless kitchen cabinet template (cabinets are pictured). You can also use it with our frameless table base template.

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In this video I build a wall cabinet in this template. Please take a moment to watch.

Once your shelf support parts have arrived, only the top and bottom shelves need to be attached. We recommend 3/4″ pocket holes, 2-3 per joint, with 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Wall cabinet bay supports are used to hang the cabinet on the wall. You only need one at the top at the back unless your cabinet is very tall, attached at both sides and top, with the recommended pocket holes.

Backing is not required, but we recommend it, especially for open cabinets. Recommended backing material is 1/4″ plywood attached with 3/4″ nails and 18-gauge nailers or 3/4″ narrow bracket clamps.

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Simply measure the opening and add 1 inch to the width and height. For double doors, simply divide them by two widths. Order the door through a door company or build it yourself.

The recommended hinge is a concealed full cover hinge for frameless cabinets. They are sold on the shelves at Lowes or Home Depot, or online.

One trick I would recommend for installing a hinge inside a cabinet is to measure on the hinge how far back the screw holes should be in the cabinet. Then draw a parallel line to the front edge of the cabinet that distance back. Then start the hinge screws on the pencil line.

Thank you for using this template. We hope this is helpful and allows you to create high quality custom cabinets at an affordable price. Everyone wants more space in their kitchen, and one way to create that space is by adding a peninsula. This simple project is easy to build and expands your counter, storage and eating area. The peninsula base is made up of three upper cabinets and one corner cabinet to create an L-shaped addition. Upper cabinets are 12 inches deep and usually sit above the countertops, but instead of using the usual 24-inch-deep lower cabinets, they will take up less space while creating extra storage.

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2. Since upper cabinets don’t automatically come with a snap, one will have to be built. This project calls for an L-shaped leg kick using 2x4s. The toe kick should be designed to be 3 inches from all sides of the cabinets and 4 inches high. Place shims all over the toe strike over the cabinet contact points. Once built, screw the finger spacers to the body.

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3. Turn the peninsula right side up and place it in place. Screw the new peninsula cabinets into the existing ones.

4. Place the MDF worktop on top of the peninsula cabinets. The countertop should hang 2 inches over the sides of the door and 8 inches over the back. An overhang in the back will create additional seating. Attach the worktop by screwing through the cabinets.

5. Measure the length and width of the work surface and apply to the laminate. You want to add an inch to the measurements, allowing yourself some room for error when attaching the laminate to the countertop. Cut the laminate using a circular saw.

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6. Use a laminate stripper to cut the laminate to the sides of the work surface. Again, cut an inch larger than the actual measurements.

7. Now prepare to lay the laminate. Clean the surface and make sure it is free of dust or debris. Apply two coats of contact cement to the edges of the work surface and one coat to the underside of the laminate strips. Allow the contact cement to dry and then carefully place the strips in place. Note that once the laminate is installed, it cannot be moved. Roll out any air pockets using a J-roller.

8. Once completely dry, use a router and laminate bit to remove excess laminate. Place the base of the router on the tabletop and move it in a left-to-right motion.

9. Once all the excess laminate is removed, it’s time to start working on the work surface. Again add two layers of contact cement to the work surface and one layer

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