Build Your Own Workbench

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Introduction This workbench is simple and inexpensive enough that you can make it in the morning, but it’s good enough for serious woodworking and hobby projects. Add a desk, bench, and a few other accessories, and you’ve got yourself a serious work center.

Build Your Own Workbench

It’s a solid 30. x 6 ft. DIY workbench is the ultimate in simplicity. It’s made of fifteen 8-foot lengths of 2x4s and 1/2-inch plywood, and it makes a better tool work station than buying much more.

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To learn how to make this workbench, follow the cutting diagrams to cut the pieces: Figure B to cut the plywood tops, then Figure C to cut the entire frame. Use the lengths shown in the cut list. You can either screw the frame together with 3-inch screws or nail it to the arm with 3-inch nails. Fasten the plywood down with 1-5/8 inch screws.

To make these project plans even easier to follow, we’ve outlined the parts added at each step. Read on to learn how to make this awesome little desk with storage.

We no longer support IE (Internet Explorer) as we strive to provide site experiences for browsers that support new web standards and security practices. Today I’m going to show you how to make a DIY worksheet. My goal was to build a large, powerful, mobile desktop as cheaply and easily as possible.

The table has a 48″x40″ top and uses only 8 2×4’s and a full sheet of MDF. This is a great project for beginners and is easy to build with construction screws and button joints. This DIY worksheet is an easy one-day project, just grab a circular saw and drill!

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First you need to find the right material to use, which is the biggest challenge when working with 2×4. One thing you really want to stay away from are the boards that have twists on them. In this case, both the pages and the edges are not equal. An easy way to check a turn is to click on the edge of the board. If it’s a 2×4 rock, it should be turned, and the turn is bad.

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Another way to check that the edges are straight is to pull the boards together. Any defects mean that one or both of them are not correct.

Set aside the straightest boards for the top and bottom of the desk. Use a 2×4 with straight edges, but a slight bow for the legs or feet.

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I put a block on my stand to make it easy to cut the parts for the table. Next I cut parts for the frame pieces for the top and bottom shelf. Since the frames are the same size, it makes it easy to do all the cuts at once.

The 48×40 is larger than the current worktops, so I had to build the frames into the floor. If you must build your desk on the floor, start by holding a straight edge or level and check your floor.

You want to find the most level and flat part and that’s where you build. Then vacuum all the dust and debris from the floor.

Get your free plans for this project! The plans include detailed instructions and a complete list of tools and materials you’ll need to make your own DIY worksheet.

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I installed long font and backboards for the frame and checked them on the floor. Once I knew which side of the tree was the most level, I marked it as the top. This will give me the best chance of building a flat table.

Next I brought in the sides and the two inner brackets and repeated the process for each 2×4. After determining the best edges, I turned to the floor for reference on a flat surface.

I made marks on the outside where I wanted the screws to go in the front and back. I then took a carpenter’s square and marked the locations of the screws.

To attach the boards, I started at the nearest corner and used a block of wood to drain the outside board. A 90 degree clamping area and two small clamps lined it all up when driving in the first set of screws.

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The screws I used are #10 3” screws. I plan to get a lot of weight on the table and they are much stronger than dry screws.

I went down to the front, lined up the layout lines and screwed them all together. The rear of the frame goes the same way. And you have a complete frame in minutes.

I removed the boards for the other frame and repeated the assembly. But this time I used a cheap right angle clamp. It was my grandmother’s, but you can get it really cheap. It actually went faster than two clamps and a clamp block.

Then I cut four legs to connect the frames. I use 30″ legs that are attached to my casters and the MD” MDF top will give me a 34.5″ table height.

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Each leg is attached to the frame with three screws. I put marks for two screws on the long screws on each board. Then I determined the end screw that would go into the front or back grain.

Next I placed the front block on the front and clamped it in place. I checked that the foot was 90 degrees to the floor. Then I installed it on the screws.

By hooking the other leg to one side, you can really fine tune their angle if needed. You want the legs to be square and parallel to each other. To check this, measure between the bottom and top legs. If the measurements are the same, they are parallel. If you’re not here, remove the two screws from the leg, glue it in place, and retighten the screws.

Adding the bottom frame is a breeze if you position the legs correctly. I flipped the mount over and raised the front and rear legs with the frame. I used a clamp to hold everything in place. I then tightened the first two screws and finished with the third.

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After completing the base, I took a few quick measurements to confirm that nothing came out of the area during installation. Everything looked good, so I went ahead and threw the casters on.

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I cut the desk top and shelf from ½” MDF with a Kreg Track Saw. The top is 48×40, but the shelf is 45×40 because it goes between the legs, not over it.

I slid the bottom shelf into place and screwed it around the perimeter. I added two screws along the back to prevent it from slipping from any vibration.

The desktop will line up with the top corners and flow to the front, but have a small edge on the sides. I plan to use this edge for something later, but you can put another 2×4.

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I used a metal ruler and a carpenter’s square to quickly install the screws. Lined up on the ruler’s side. I then covered the area with every 8” and set the 2×4 screws to center the “at” mark.

To get the screw locations for the inner back, I visually lined up the area with the front screws and placed the ruler against it. Then I put a mark on every 10”.

I used a counter surface with a depth stop. This gives consistent depth and you won’t have any screws on top.

You can secure the first few screws and then the opposite corner. This will help keep you from going overboard while doing the others.

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Once the top was down, I rounded the corners to match the curve of the 2×4 frame. This will keep me from getting ripped off.

I then applied two coats of polyurethane to protect the surface. Using a water-based poly dries quickly but will lift up a bit. But a quick sanding between the coats gets rid of it.

And then we did it! A DIY worksheet is great and sturdy, and you can make it quickly for a lot of money. That’s great

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