Build Your Own Night Stand

Build Your Own Night Stand

Build Your Own Night Stand – My favorite part of making my own furniture is being able to take a design I love and turn it into a piece of furniture that fits my home! I found a modern hall table that I really liked, but I didn’t need a new hall table. Instead I used the design to make the nightstands!! This tutorial will help you create a modern bedside table yourself.

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Build Your Own Night Stand

When I first started making furniture, I only bought pine wood. It is much cheaper and a little easier to work with than most hardwoods. That way, I didn’t feel bad if I made mistakes or the furniture didn’t turn out exactly how I hoped. If you are a beginner, I would recommend working with a cheaper wood for your first few projects.

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For my sideboards, I wanted them to match the bed I recently made. I made the bed from red oak, so I did the same for the sideboards. I really like oak, and red oak is usually sold in big box stores.

I purchased 8 feet of wood for the cabinets. I needed five pieces of wood for the side panel for the nightstand. To have minimal waste, I cut the pieces 23-3/4″ long with a miter saw. I cut a total of twenty (20) pieces.

And now the most interesting! Paneling is really fun if you’re ready. The best way to prepare before applying any glue is to lay everything out and prepare.

I started by setting the pipe clamps a little wider than the finished width of the two panels. I thought it would be a good idea to clamp two panels at a time, but it would probably be easier to clamp one panel at a time.

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In order not to discolor the wood, I put masking tape on the top of the pipe clamps. I also taped the pieces of wood that I was going to use as hold-downs for the clamp.

I like to lay out all the glue before applying any glue. It’s nice to be sure all my clips are in the right place. It also gives me a chance to make any changes to my clamps before I start gluing.

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Once everything was ready and in place, I applied wood glue to the edge of the wood. I used a glue brush to make sure the surfaces were completely covered.

Here’s the tricky part… I needed to offset the ends of the boards for the design of my nightstands. I offset the ends 13/16″. This will give me an extra 1/16″ to work with when I assemble the nightstands. It is always easier to remove material than to add.

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I used some pipe clamps and gluing fasteners. The stops are used to keep the boards flat and aligned during clamping. Once everything was attached, I let the glue set for 24 hours before removing the panels from the clamps.

It is always easiest to smooth the panels before assembling the box. Unfortunately, I don’t have a table planer, so I had to use a hand planer. You can also use a mechanical hand planer for this…just make sure you don’t lengthen the wood. I just lightly went over the seams on both sides of the panels to remove any heights.

When I was happy with the seams, I sanded each side of the panels with my orbital sander. I started with 120 grit and finished with 220 grit.

This part was difficult at first, but once I had a plan, it became much easier!

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I started by joining the two panels. I lined them up with angle clamps…this ensured they stayed square. I then used pipe clamps to hold the panels together while the glue had time to dry.

With the first box I made, I tried to glue several corners together. Not only did I not have enough clamps to do this, it was really hard to keep everything straight that way. So I glued one corner at a time and let the glue dry before gluing the next corner.

Since I allowed a 1/16″ protrusion on each panel, I now needed to sand them flush. It took a bit of time, but the finished product will look much better than if the ends were too short. It is always easier to remove material than to add!

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Using my orbital sander, I started with 80 grit sandpaper and slowly worked my way up to 220 grit sandpaper. I was careful to sand only the overhangs, trying not to make any depressions at the ends.

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After the ends were sanded flush, I decided to sand the edges of the nightstand box. I used a small round drill bit and machined the inside and outside edges. You can also round the edges by sanding by hand or gently with a sander.

To add some height to the nightstand, I made a small base. I made the base out of 1×3 oak. The base is about 2 inches shorter than the entire frame of the nightstand.

I started by cutting out the four sides of the base. I beveled the corners for a really clean look.

Using my angle clamps, I glued and nailed the base together. When the glue had time to dry, I filled the nail hole with wood filler and sanded the base.

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I planned to attach the base to the frame of the nightstand with screws. The pocket screw holes will be hidden. I made two pocket holes on each side using my hole jig.

On the underside of the nightstand, I marked where the base should be. I then applied wood glue to the base and screwed it to the frame of the nightstand.

To add rigidity to the drawer and also keep things square, I added two cross bars to the nightstand drawer. I attached the crossbars to the box with screws. I made sure the pocket openings were facing up. That way, they won’t be visible after the box is installed.

The crossbars not only add rigidity, but also help in the installation of the drawer box. I also like to use the front crossbar as a drawer stop.

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I made some bedside tables. The easiest and fastest way to add a back panel is to simply cut a piece of 1/4” plywood to the desired size and attach it to the back of the nightstand frame. The disadvantage of this method is that you can see the back panel from the side of the nightstand.

For a more professional look and to complete the look, I flipped the back of the nightstand box to be able to insert the back panel. This milling bit set has a great variety of bits.

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Using 1/4″ oak, I cut the back panel to fit in the space. I attached the back panel to the frame with nails.

Drawer boxes can be made in several different ways. Since the drawer is not visible when the drawer is closed, I am trying to make the drawer quick and easy! I will cover how I make the drawer boxes in a detailed blog post. I also found an easy way to install the drawer… I will share that in a blog post as well.

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The size of the drawer will depend on the selected drawers. Be sure to read the instructions for the drawer guides before building the drawer box.

I finished the nightstand using Watco Danish Oil in Medium Walnut Oil. It is a product that paints and seals in one step. I applied two coats of Danish Oil to all surfaces of the nightstand box.

I don’t mess up the drawer because it’s out of sight. Instead, I just sealed it with water-based polyethylene. I applied two coats of polyethylene with a light sanding between coats.

The last element of the design of the bedside table is the front side of the drawer! After assembling the nightstand box and installing the drawer box, I was able to measure the drawer front. I like to make the drawer faces about 1/16 inch smaller than the hole.

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I cut the drawer fronts out of 1 x 12 oak. I trimmed the edges of the drawer fronts with a small round drill bit. I also routed the inside bottom of the drawer using a chamfer drill so there would be a nice place to open the drawer. When I was done with the router, I sanded the front of the drawer.

Getting the front of the drawer perfectly aligned can be very difficult. One thing

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