Build Your Own Mudroom Bench

Build Your Own Mudroom Bench – In just a few hours, Tom Silva and Kevin O’Connor transform a single sheet of MDF into a piece of furniture that provides both storage and seating.

Shoes, boots and all kinds of dirt tend to accumulate in the back entrances of our homes and toilets as we move from the outdoors to the indoors. The pileup peaks in the winter, when gloves, hats and other outerwear disappear, then mysteriously disappear the next time they’re needed.

Build Your Own Mudroom Bench

That’s the value of a mud bench with cubbies to collect all your seasonal gear and keep it neatly organized. It can also be a nice place to sit while putting on and taking off your shoes.

Diy Mudroom Bench Part 2

General contractor Tom Silva designed this bench to be made from just one 4×8 sheet of medium-density fiberboard (MDF), a hard, uniform, affordable material that takes paint well. He sized the bench for three wicker baskets, but they are optional. What is not optional for such a frequently used piece of furniture is solid construction techniques using strong screws, grooved joints and lots of wood glue. Follow these pages as Tom uses these techniques to put together this useful messy room organizer.

Shown: Tom and Kevin show off their latest project: a three-cube storage bench they built from scratch in a couple of hours.

According to the list, cut the MDF into 14 parts. For now, leave the top and bottom a single 3-by-4-foot panel. Smooth the faces and edges with 180-grit sandpaper. Mark a line across the width of the 3-by-4-foot panel 3⁄4-inch from each end, then two evenly spaced parallel lines between them.

Using the guide, run a 5⁄16-inch deep router bit along the inside edges of the end marks and in the middle of the other marks. Stop the drill 3⁄4 inch from one edge as shown. Cut the edge with a chisel and saw the panel lengthwise into two parts. The upper part has a stopped dado.

Closet Mudroom Bench With Hinge Up Boot Storage Compartment

Make 3⁄4-inch studs at the bottom ends by cutting off one side of each dado. Then use a countersink to drill three evenly spaced pilot holes in each stud and tongue, top and bottom, and along the back edge of the top. Countersink each hole through the opposite surface of the board.

Place a bead of carpentry glue, such as Gorilla Wood Glue, on the edge and rub it on both sides of the cut. Install the first partition into the tongue and groove, then turn the assembly on its side to expose the concealed guide holes at the bottom. Get a helper or use clamps to secure the angle.

Line up the ends and edges, then insert a deck screw into each of the three guide holes and press down slightly on its head. Turn the assembly upside down and remove excess glue with a damp cloth. Apply glue to the next cut, tap the spacer with a hammer, then turn it over and screw it in as before. Repeat with the other sections.

Apply glue to the top and, with the dividers vertical, set the top in place as shown. Tap it with a hammer. Check that the cut ends of the fillet are snug against the front edges of the baffles and have a 3⁄4-inch overhang behind. Drive the three screws up and into each partition.

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Apply a bead of glue along the top edge of the back and the back edges of the dividers and bottom. Press the back against the glue lines and screw in the three screws at the top and back. Hold the backrest in place with clamps or pneumatically actuated rods.

Cut bevels at both ends of the front of the base and at one end of each side piece. Glue and nail the filler to the inside of each side piece; glue and nail the ends of these pairs to each of the front corners. Glue and nail the center support and then the fillers to the back of the front.

Apply glue to the top edges of the fillers and the center support, then use a helper to lower the cube assembly onto them. Shoot the brad through the midpoint at the front of each die into the front fillers. Smooth the scuffed areas with 220-grit sandpaper, then prime and paint.

For finishing, they applied a shellac-based primer and two coats of semi-matte acrylic-latex paint. The pillow provides a comfortable seat.

Mudroom Locker With Bench: Pictures, Options, Tips And Ideas

Get the latest that old home news, tried-and-true tips, tricks and DIY Smarts projects from our experts straight to your inbox. Create a built-in space for coats and other items with a seat to sit on while you tie your shoes.

5 out of 5 Strong The basic frame is simple, but the joints and turns on the applied molding require some carpentry.

As soon as the sun rises, umbrellas, raincoats and sneakers appear. And with them comes a lot of dirty moisture that can warp wood floors and stain your best rugs. Aside from forcing your family to undress at the front door, your best bet is to create a staging area by the door where everyone can leave the weather behind.

Senior Tech Editor Mark Powers shows you how to build the perfect mudroom bench, complete with an open top shelf, coat hooks and a roll-top storage area. Crafted from plywood, shelf panels, and multi-layer molding, this beautiful built-in entryway is sure to make your home more welcoming while protecting it from wear and tear. In fact, you may find it so convenient that you find yourself staying there even when the sun is shining.

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The bench seat starts with a plywood box with an open bottom. To make the four sides of the box, cut two 16-inch strips from a sheet of 3/4-inch plywood using a circular saw. Cut strips on the panel: two 69½-inch pieces and two 15½-inch pieces.

If you have a plinth, measure the height of the plinth and then tear that part off from one of the longer pieces. This strip becomes the back of the box, shortened so that it can rest over the plinth.

Place the box in front of the plinth. Mark where the sides of the box meet the molding. Remove the box and, using a reciprocating saw, cut the baseboard 3/4″ on either side of each mark to make 1½” notches that fit the sides of the box with the molding applied to it.

Find the studs in the wall and mark their location. Using a level, run the marks 7 feet up the wall.

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Slide the box into place. Place it so that the sides fit into the notches. If necessary, level the box. Screw the box to the wall by the studs with 2½-inch screws.

Using a miter saw, cut the 2×4 to 68 inches, the inside width of the box. Cut a 3½-inch-wide strip of plywood the same length. Attach the pieces with 15/8-inch screws.

Place a 2×4 knot along the back of the box 3/4 inch from the top edge. Screw it through the box to the studs with 3½-inch screws. This piece will later be hidden by a strip of plywood and molding.

Screw the L-braces inside the box and to the floor, three inside the front edge and two on each side to hold the box in place.

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For the supports (vertical sides) of the panel frames, cut seven 16-inch strips of 1×4. For the horizontal rails, cut four 10 3/4-inch pieces and four 30 ¼-inch pieces of 1×4.

Where two slats overlap at corners, the slat on the side of the box should be narrower than the front so that the panel appears the same width all around. Using a circular or handsaw, cut 3/4 inch from the width of the two posts.

Starting with the post that slides into the back wall on the sides of the box, glue and nail the 1x4s to the box using 3D nails. Align the edges of the 1×4 with the edges of the box. Use a narrower style in the front corner.

To create a profile on the inside edge of the 1×4 frame, cut the panel molding to fit inside the 1×4 rectangles. Trim the ends of the molding. Nail the molding to the box with 2d nails tight to the 1x4s. Frame the other side of the box in the same way.

Entry Mudroom Bench Unit

Trim the front of the box to create two frames joined by a single piece of 1×4 in the center. Overlap the corners of the 1×4 flush with the side panels. Insert the panel molding into the frame.

Cut the 1×2 piece to 71 inches. Glue and nail it to the top edge of the front of the box using 3D finish nails.

Cut two pieces to 16¼ inches and use them to close the sides. The side caps should now be flush with the 2×4 assembly attached to the wall.

Using a miter saw, cut ½x7/8 inch strips of decorative shoe molding to match the front and side edges of the lid. Cut the ends at the corners, but leave the back

Diy Mudroom Bench

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