Build Your Own Frame Pieces

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This article was written by Peter Salerno. Peter Salerno is the owner of Hook It Up Installation, a professional installation company, that has been hanging art and other objects around Chicago, Illinois for over 10 years. Peter also has over 20 years of experience in installing art and objects. Another boost is in residential, commercial, healthcare and hospitality.

Build Your Own Frame Pieces

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Photo booths are a great way to display your favorite photos, but they can get pretty expensive. Making them instead of buying them is the best way to get a beautiful frame that fits your photos perfectly without breaking the bank. Frames make the perfect gift for loved ones, or keep them to decorate your own wall.

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This article was written by Peter Salerno. Peter Salerno is the owner of Hook It Up Installation, a professional installation company, that has been hanging art and other objects around Chicago, Illinois for over 10 years. Peter also has over 20 years of experience in installing art and objects. Another boost is in residential, commercial, healthcare and hospitality. This article has been viewed 991,807 times.

To make a photo frame, start by cutting the cardboard into a rectangle that is a few inches larger than your photo on each side. Then, cut out a rectangle in the middle that is a little smaller than your photo before painting and tracing the center as you want. Next, cut a rectangle that is slightly larger than the center from another piece of cardboard. After that, add 3 pieces of cardboard to the back of the frame and glue your photo to the side of the hole. To learn how to use wood slats, old newspapers, or branches to make a photo, scroll down! However, with the shadow box in front of the mirror, the collections can have a proper display space, protected from dust and dirt, and bad fingers.

How To Make A Shadow Box

In the video above, you’ll see a simple box that Tom and Kevin made, fittingly, from salvaged old fir door pieces. A door like this is usually made of beautiful wood with no grain and a strong and straight grain. When the oil, it turns hot and honey. But Tom also made sure to leave unmistakable details about the origin of this tree: See the spot where the block is tied?

Shadow boxes can be made of wood and have a glass front so you can see what you are going to store inside. The glass is placed in a place to store the contents of the box, you have to remove the back.

In these steps, we will show you how to cut old doors and assemble this project. In addition, you will find useful tips for plugging holes and cutting glass. Then, with any luck, you can uncover a well-preserved door at the right price, and after a few hours in your store, you will have a shadow box that the bar produces in ‘your own house.

A clear finish, as this door has, makes it easier to check the quality of the wood. Lead is not a problem in clear finishes, but it can be in paint. If the paint is a good test, be sure to take proper precautions and let the door dry before proceeding.

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Using a circular saw with a slotted fence, or the fingers holding the saw shoe, cut a step around the door jamb, as shown. (This stile doesn’t have a door slot to fill.) Go to the other side of the stairs and the corridor to free one of the door slots.

Check for hidden screws, then pry up the side of the stile and table top. Tom then quickly scraped the old tool on the stile face with four light cuts, as shown. That saved a lot of dust.

Run the clean board through the table saw two more times to make a ½-inch-by-½-rabbet on one side. The bottom of the box will fit this rabbit. On the same side, 1⁄4 inch from the side facing the rabbet, use a saw to cut a 1⁄8-inch wide, ½-inch deep dado to hold the cup.

Using a random-orbit sander with 220-grit sandpaper, smooth all sides of the stile. Save the sawdust for the next step. Then sand finished one side of the panel, as shown. Start with 180-grit sandpaper, and finish with 220.

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Pro2Pro tip: To recreate the holes in the finished piece, take back the scoop of fine sawdust that you saved in Step 6, and use your fingers to mix it with liquid glue, as shown above. The dust will turn the glue the same color as the wood. When the glue hardens, sand the repair well.

Turn the piece of wood from the stile into a narrow piece of wood that will fit into the holes left by the ring screws. Insert Gorilla wood into the hole, insert the stick, and cut it with a knife, as shown. Use the sawdust saved in Step 6 to paint the glue.

Wipe the stile and panel clean with a clean cloth; then, using a lint-free cloth, put the end into all the sides of the stile and the sand face of the panel. Here, Kevin is applying an oil-varnish mixture. To finish this, wait 5 to 10 minutes for it to soak in, wipe off anything, and throw the cloth into the water so it doesn’t burn immediately. The pieces will be dry enough to handle within 10 hours.

When the finish is dry, use a miter saw to cut 45-degree miters into the edges of all four corners, to the lengths specified on the cut list. When making these cuts, place each side on the side of the cutting wall with the dado and rabbet facing, as shown.

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Measure the length of the box and the width from inside the rabbets. Remove 1⁄8 inch from both sides, to give the panel room to move when the time is changed. Using a table saw, cut the fish into small, narrow strips, as shown.

Apply glue to two miters of the short end piece, as shown, and spread it evenly on the fabric. Repeat with a miter fit on one end of each long side. PVA wood glue will work here, but Tom chose instead to use Clear Gorilla Glue, a hybrid, which is not polyurethane.

Match the machine used to connect the ends with the glued sheet of the two parts. Make sure the dadoes and corners line up, then fasten the piece in place with two 2-inch brads, run on each side on both sides.

Using the back of the box as a template, use a sensitive marker. To use the panel as a guide for the glass cutter, rotate it so that the wheel of the cutter is aligned with the mark. Now, wearing gloves, dip the wheel in the cutting oil and pull the cutter to a tight angle against the panel, as shown.

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Place the marker on the glass at the edge of the table. With gloves on, lift the cup from where it hangs on the table and set it straight down. The machine will fit the mark, leaving a clean, straight edge. Repeat steps 13 and 14, if necessary, then fold the sheet into three parts, as shown.

Using the glass there, add the remaining end piece to the frame. Hold the piece in place with the string and bar clamp, and run two brads on each side of the two joints, as shown.

Flip the side of the box down, and place on the back panel. Using a 5⁄64-inch bit, drill three equal pilot holes from the back, slightly into the center of the box. Each long section should have three holes; each short section should have two. Insert a wooden dowel into each pilot hole. Because the glass inside this box is fixed, you have to get into it by opening the back.

Get these old house stories, trusted tips, tricks, and DIY Smarts projects from our experts – straight to your inbox. I think that when I posted about our fallen comforter in our bedroom, it reminded me of how neglected the house has been for so long. then… and I’ve found myself adding a little something to heat it up!

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We had this foam-core print of the girls from their newborn photoshoot with the fabulous Molly Long, and had the intention of framing it and putting it in our room for a good while now.

So last weekend we decided to stop tinkering and build one already! It’s not your standard approach to buying a frame…plus, why buy a frame when you can make one?!

We made ourselves sad

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