How To Adjust Clutch Pedal – I bought a 91 Camry 3sfe a few weeks ago, and it had a clutch dropout problem. I was a little hard on the clutch the first few weeks, then getting used to the manual transmission, so I guess it wasn’t too surprising. In general, the car appears to be very well maintained
It still drives well most of the time, but when the torque is high, especially when going uphill, it drops a bit in all gears (engine racing without extra power).
The clutch fluid seems pretty full to me (and smells amazing, like extra virgin olive oil) – at least the reservoir is easy to check.
I’m pretty sure I need to replace the clutch, and soon, but my immediate question is about something left.
Marc780 points out here that “the clutch pedal can be adjusted to get several hundred miles out of a dead clutch.”
I don’t see anything in the manual about my clutch self-adjusting when you pull it out, like some might, so I think if I’m going to do it I’ll go under the dash and… like mine It sounds Should you press on the hook?
I’m asking here for any hints and tips on what to try, and any links to detailed help on the gen2 clutch issue.
I can’t get the clutch to work quickly and slipping becomes difficult
First, don’t let the clutch slip down if possible. If you need more power on a hill every time you go uphill, you’re a hundred miles away from what little life you have left.
Second, the clutch is self-regulating, pretty much a hydraulic system that bleeds back fluid until there is no more force to push the clutch back. You should notice a slight shift in the engagement point as the clutch shifts, but this usually does not require adjustment.
Any chance this is why the previous owner got rid of the car? If the clutch fluid is new (actually clear), they may have tried some before selling the car…
If my mind remembers correctly the shift where the clutch disengages will probably soon be behind the adjustment pedal.
White90dx said: Every time you hang, you’re a hundred miles away from the little life you had left. Click to expand… Thanks
So do you know if there is any truth to the idea that adjusting the pedals can give me a little more breath?
Another very detailed discussion of the clutch adjustment process that I have found so far is: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/clutch-adjustment.html. They talk about pressing the pedal while pushing on the hook until it clicks into the new position. Then they say if you want to change it just pull out the pedal and let the self-adjusting mechanism do it.
Does anyone know if the 91 3sfe has a self adjusting clutch pedal? It might be the way they leave it out of the original owner’s manual, but I don’t want to pull that pedal if it doesn’t go that way.
Finally, I’m aware of changing the pedal setting (by pressing the hook while pressing the pedal) so I can restore the setting as needed if I’m not sure – which sounds like a self-adjusting feature. . How easy would it be? :no
It’s just measuring the stop gap – do you know what kind of adjustment I’d like to make to reduce clutch slip?
Unless the release bearing is always pressing against the clutch, there is nothing you can do to prevent the clutch from slipping.
Putting all this together, and not being able to ask Mark 780 (as he hasn’t been active on the site in years), it looks like I need to replace my only real clutch. place The policies are:
2) Since this is a self-adjusting hydraulic system, make sure the fluid is completely topped off and replace it with the best stuff I can do just for hair?
Bonus points if someone wants to tell me why there are 50 magic products in a bottle for automatic transmission but none for manual.
A manual transmission uses a dry clutch – fluid is only used to depress the lever that releases the clutch. There is nothing you can add to the manual to extend the life of your clutch compared to other clutches. This is no longer the way to arrange modern clutches.
Pragmatic said: Putting all this together, and not being able to ask Mark 780 (as he hasn’t been active on the site in years), it looks like I’ll have to replace the clutch before feed me something My only real tricks are: 1) it runs like a real ginger 2) it’s self-adjusting hydraulic system, make sure the fluid is topped up completely and changing it for the best stuff is just a hair’s breadth Can you help me by? Bonus points if someone wants to tell me why there are 50 magic products in a bottle for automatic transmission but none for manual. Thanks for all the tips Click to expand… There are many options for manual transmission fluids that can change transmission characteristics, etc. No need to top up the clutch fluid or anything either. Low clutch fluid prevents you from slipping the clutch, which is the opposite of your current problem.
So yes, drive it like a ginger, downshift whenever possible and try your best to cut it. Using lower gears will require less torque output from the engine (and thus conserve torque through the clutch). And should extend clutch life.
What you describe sounds like a badly worn clutch that needs to be replaced age, mileage or engine oil can leak onto it from a bad rear main seal I once worked on a car where that the previous owner was working the clutch the clutch was always engaged even when the pedal was depressed took it apart to check and there was a bolt that came out
I once bought a car with the same problem you describe, different model the clutch was shot from age/use at the very least I would recommend removing the transmission and inspecting it once it’s apart you’ll know right away What problems will you run into especially if the pressure plate and flywheel have blue marks, when you grind the piece of metal hard and fast it gets hot and leaves blue marks. The friction disc will also face the rivets
The paddle adjustment under the dash is really just for adjusting when it engages/disengages. The springs on the pressure plate do all the work to hold the clutch disc in. I have the exact opposite of what you describe, like a leaking master or slave cylinder or system low on fluid then the clutch won’t disengage clutch pedal hydraulically. The transmission is attached to the fork, it works like your brake and adjusts itself every time you use it. What you are describing with adjustment and “clicking” is the pedal using a cable to connect to the transmission fork, not the system in your car. If you have the potential to solve their problems, they won’t be unhappy, just like you
Step 5 of the FSM posted above. It’s weird but a good way to make sure it’s attached at the right height. It’s really hard to gauge what they want from you.
If you or someone else does this I recommend replacing the rear main crankshaft seal and both the right and left transmission output shaft seals as well. And an input shaft seal if you’re into it
The point is that it has to be checked and proven there is no magic addition or adjustment that will fix it, you are already on borrowed time.
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For members who want to bring their clutch grip point (or more) off the floor due to personal preference
If you go under your steering column, you will see the clutch master cylinder coming out of the firewall.
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