Diy Light Fixtures Installation

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Lighting is an often overlooked but important part of home style. The possibilities of lighting designs are limitless; The key is finding something that speaks to you + enhances your space + stays within budget at the same time.

Diy Light Fixtures Installation

This tutorial provides step-by-step instructions on how to create your own custom light fixture (this one is for bathroom lighting) with an industrial feel. The size can be shortened or lengthened; You can customize the lighting by changing the number of bulbs and many other ways to match your space and your style, but the end result is a stunning industrial lighting that you’re sure to love. years to come.

Diy Industrial Bathroom Light Fixtures

Note: This tutorial is provided by an experienced DIYer who is not a professional electrician. This is for demonstration purposes only. Get professional advice with any questions or concerns you may have. We are not responsible for any problems caused by following this tutorial. In addition, This tutorial shows how to build a three-bulb industrial light bulb with basic tools (ie, no router). Adjust supplies and materials as needed for more or fewer bulbs.

DIY Bathroom Vanity Light Fixture Step 1: Attach the poplar boards to the back of the pine board

You want your poplar boards to exactly match the edges of your cut 1×6 pine boards. Start by measuring and cutting the two sides (which will run vertically); Then measure and cut the top and bottom lengths to fit inside them.

Glue the dry fit to the back of your pine board for a snug fit. Adjust the lengths as needed for the perfect fit.

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Spread a medium amount of wood glue on the pine boards and attach the glued side to the back of your 1×6 pine board.

Screw all the flat screws and the four hex screws into a small piece of wood.

Spray the tops of these screws with your Rustoleum Hammered Gray spray paint. This color will match the galvanized parts of your light fixture pretty closely. Let the spray paint dry thoroughly.

The parts for each light bulb are sorted but not assembled yet.

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The outdoor/weatherproof sockets don’t fit on the 3/4″ side of the galvanized elbow. In fact, I couldn’t find a piece that would fit them for this lighting project. After squeezing the pieces together as much as possible, use a little super glue to attach the pieces.

At this point you have several parts of your light fixture drying – the wood glue on your 1×6 pine board; You may have spray paint on your screws and super glue on your sockets/elbows.

When the wood glue is completely dry, Add wood stain to the front and sides of your pine board, including your pine scraps.

Scrub the wood stain with a clean brush, and after a minute or two, wipe off the raised edges. Repeat until you reach the level of dark staining behind you. Let the stain dry completely.

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Measure the vertical center of your board and note this number. Since this 1×6 board is 30 inches long and requires three lights, Measure 7” in from each side and then 8” in from those marks (so, from left to right, my measurements are: 7 – 8 – 8 – 7, where each dash represents a marked hole.)

These three holes are drilled and marked using vertical center measurements and side-to-side measurements. Using a 3/8″ drill bit, make each hole slightly wider than that, aiming for a hole size of about 1/2″.

With the holes drilled in your board and the sockets attached to the galvanized elbows. You’re ready to start wiring your industrial lighting fixture.

When the flanges are properly centered. Secure to the board with 1/2″ flathead screws.

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You want a parallel circuit so that if one light goes out, the other lights stay on. This simply means that the wires of each socket will connect to the wires of the neighboring socket so that they are all connected to the main electrical source (wall wires). (Note: The electrical source in my bathroom is centered on the right side, so our wiring is flexible. Be sure to know where your electrical source is and plan accordingly with your wiring location.)

The socket wires are too short to travel through the 4″ galvanized nipples, so you’ll want to connect the additional black and white wires through the wire nuts. These extra wires should be long enough to connect to the socket wires, pass through the 4″ nipple, and reach the nearby socket hole. Tip: Stagger the socket wires so they don’t touch the wire nuts at the same point on the 4″ nipple.

Thread the wires through the flange and punch a hole in the pine board. Then carefully screw the plug + nipple onto the flange.

Repeat the wiring steps on the nearby socket. There should be two black and white wires big enough to meet each other. You’ll add in a third set of black and white wires to connect to the next (or, in this case, last) socket.

Diy Industrial Light For Vanity

Attach the three white wires (the white wires from socket #1 and #2 and the third wire that will connect to socket #3) and the three black wires (same socket connection status) with wire nuts.

Connect socket #3 to socket #3 as you did #1 and #2 with the socket wires cut to vibrate. Thread the wires through the hole in your pine board and then attach the third galvanized nipple to the flange.

Connect the black plug wire coming from #1 and #2 connections to the black wire from socket #3 with a wire harness. Then add another black wire to the mix. This third black wire is what connects to the black wall wire on your light box. Do the same with your white cords. When all is said and done, you should have the free ends of a black and white string. All other wires should be connected to the tape wire wraps.

First, Turn off the breaker. Then find the studs on your wall. Then mark these positions on your defense. Test your pine board for your hex screws, being very careful not to poke the wires in the back. Run your lamp and connect the white wire of the lamp to the white wire of your power source and the black to black wire. After wiring, Hold the industrial light switch in place with your hex screws. Check the level for sure.

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When your bulb is securely attached to the wall with a cord, Screw your bulbs into the sockets. (Recommend Edison-style bulbs, especially LED bulbs, for energy conservation and warm lighting.)

My shower only has two usable studs and they are very close to the center of the aperture. Fortunately, They are mostly centered; Although I liked them better towards the end of the light window.

Congratulations! You’ve just uploaded your industrial lights. Your bathroom is well on its way to becoming the stylish space you envisioned. We hope you enjoy this project as much as we did! It takes a little time for the glue to dry between steps, but we think the time and effort is well worth it for the finished result. Learning how to wire an installation like this is an accomplishment and a useful skill to remember for future projects. Whether you put this in your master bathroom or a guest bathroom. This will be a fun and unique touch to any room that will impress visiting friends and family. It’s funny to make a change every January in my living room and this year is no different. Some rooms in our house are so easy they almost decorate themselves, while others never feel finished or “just right”. This room is definitely the living room for me.

Design inspiration hit me in waves and after Christmas when I had another blank canvas, I had tons of ideas for the living room. I want to do everything on a small budget. So I had to get creative and figure out how to bring my vision to life. I’ll be sharing several tutorials over the coming weeks for projects I’ve been working on. But today I’m starting with a genius DIY Lighting Hack that I’m super excited about.

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It doesn’t always show in photos, but our living room/dining room is a tight space. Our large farmhouse dining table sits a few feet away from the couch, with a table set next to the sectional so it can be lit.

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