Build Your Own Dresser Plans

Build Your Own Dresser Plans – NOTE: This tutorial is sponsored by Kreg Tool. All opinions are my own. This post may contain affiliate links. To view our full disclosure policy, click HERE

Maybe starting to build a 7-drawer dresser when you were pregnant wasn’t the besssssst option, but when we filled the nursery, I could NOT spend $500+ on something I knew I could do. I’m happy to spend the money on a crib (safety regulations and all), but a dresser, I can afford. I knew I had a simple method for making drawers and drawer fronts (the scariest part of building a closet, okay?), and I knew that the front, back and side frames only-so why not dive. Read on to see how, while it may seem like a lot of steps, it’s very simple to assemble each part. And with a removable custom table topper, this dresser can grow with our new little one for years.

Build Your Own Dresser Plans

TIP: Click the link in Step 1 to download the free building plans. Click the tabs below to see the tools, materials and cutting list.

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Cost: $180 (Note: I spent an additional $105 on soft-closing full-extension drawer slides, but more economical options are available)

Difficulty: Moderate. My easy assembly methods for the drawers, carcass and drawer fronts make this project easy, but the overall size and scope of the project requires commitment.

(1) ½” x 4′ x 8′ Plywood to make Small Drawers and Panels on Drawer Fronts and Backing

(8) 1 x 2 x 8′ boards to make the Rails and Stiles and the Drawer Front Frames

Dresser Diy Plan Pdf File Only

To form the base of each leg, click on the images below to view the Project Plans and free Leg Template. Print the Template page, and then cut out the shape.

Cut the length of the 2 x 2 Legs using a miter saw. Place the Template at the base of each Leg, and then trace its outline onto the Leg as shown.

Clamp one of the Legs on the work surface with the outlined detail facing, and hang the edge of the table. Using a jigsaw, cut along the line to form the base of the Leg. Repeat to form the remaining Legs.

Place the two legs side by side with the cut detail facing upwards. In this position, the inside of each leg faces upwards. Using a speed square, mark the height of the top edge of each Front Rail on the Legs at 0 inches (flush with the top of the Legs), 7½-inches, 16¾-inches, and 26-inches. Repeat to mark the length of the Back Rails on the remaining Legs at 0-inch, 2 3/8-inch, 10 ¾-inch, 20-inch, and 26-inch.

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Using a miter saw, cut five 1 x 2, one 2 x 2 and three 1 x 4 Rails to 53-inch lengths. Using the cut list above, cut the vertical 1 x 2 Stiles to length as well. Using the Pocket Hole tool (I use the Kreg Jig K4), drill pocket holes in one end of each of the 6¾-inch-Stiles, two ends of the two 8½-inch-Stiles, and two ends of all which are 1 x 2, 2 x 2 and 1 x 4 Rails.

Place the three 1 x 2 Rails and the 2 x 2 Base Rail on the edge between the front two Legs. Position the Rails so their top edge sets flush with the marks made in Step 4, with their pocket holes facing down toward the base of each Leg.

To create a decorative “reveal” between the Legs and the Rail, I inserted the Rail 1/8-inch. To do this, place a 1/8-inch thick scrap (like a paint stick) under the Leg. Apply glue to the end of the top 1 x 2 Rail. Screw through the Rail and into the Leg with 1¼-inch coarse pocket hole screws to secure the joint. Repeat to attach the opposite end of the Rail to the remaining front Leg.

Place the second Rail under the first. Make a mark on the front edge of the two Rails running 17 11/64-inches from each end. (Sorry this is an awkward measurement, but the goal here is just to make three equal sized openings for the top drawers.) Now remove the second Rail. Place the vertical Stiles inside the lines with their pocket holes facing up towards the nearest Leg. Apply wood glue to the top edge of the Stile, and then clamp it in place. Secure the Stile with a drill/driver and two 1¼-inch pocket hole screws.

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Since most drills will not fit through the top opening of the Rail, predrill two holes through the second Rail along the bottom edge of each Stile. Apply wood glue to the ends of the second Rail and to the ends of the Stiles. Drive two 1¼-inch screws (I just use pocket hole screws and countersunk them slightly into the wood) through the Rail and into the end of each Stile to secure them in place. Now screw the second Rail to the Legs. Place the third and fourth Rails against the second Rail to mark the location of the remaining Stiles at 26 1/8-inches from each Leg. Using glue and pocket hole screws, finish installing the remaining Rails and Stiles between the front Legs.

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Place the 1 x 2 and 1 x 4 Rails between the Back Legs as shown to double check their length between the two back Legs.

Apply wood glue to the ends of the Rails, and then place them in place with the pocket holes facing each other. Using a ½-inch thick spacer, raise the Rails to create an inset for the plywood Backing.

Tip: Place the assembled Front Frame into the Back Frame with the legs perfectly aligned. Mark the location of the vertical Stiles of the Front Frame to the Rails of the Back Frame. This will help to place the Supports later.

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Using a table saw or circular saw, cut the ½-inch Plywood Side Panels to size. Drill pocket holes in the bottom and side edges of each panel. Mark horizontal lines on the inside face of each Panel to indicate the length of the Drawer Slide Padding Strips. Mark lines at 3 3/8-inches, 11¾-inches, and 21-inches from the top edge.

While you could use one 2 x 2 for the bottom Rail on each Side, I chose to save money and just double the two 1 x 2 boards. To do this, glue and nail two 1 x 2 boards together.

Place the Side Panel on a ½-inch thick piece of plywood (I used drawer slide padding strips) to raise it ½-inch. Apply wood glue to the bottom edge of each Side Panel. Place the double-up 1 x 2 Rail along the bottom edge of the Panel so that the edge of the panel covers the joint of the double-up Rail and the holes in the pocket of the Rail face each other. Drive 1-inch pocket hole screws through the Panel and into the Rail to secure it in place. Repeat to attach the bottom Rail to the remaining Side Panel.

To allow the Drawer Slides to pass freely inside each Side Panel and past the front Legs, the panels must be “padded-out” by ½-inch. To do this, place ½-inch plywood cut to 1½” x 15¼” under each line marked inside the Panels. Secure the strips with wood glue and ¾-inch nails.

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Place the assembled Dresser Body Face down on the work surface. Apply wood glue to the edge of the Side Panel. Place the Panel on the edge of the Leg, as shown. Place the top edge of the Panel flush with the top edge of the Leg, adjusting its position until the Padding strips run flush with the inner surface of the Leg. Using a speed square and clamp, hold the Side Panel in place. Using a drill/driver, drive 1¼-inch pocket hole screws through the Side Panel and into the Leg. Finish by driving the screws through the bottom Rail of the Side Panel into the Leg. Repeat to install the rest of the Side Panel.

Apply wood glue to the exposed edges of the Side Panels, and then attach the assembled Back Frame to the Side Panels. Clamp the parts in place, and then attach each Side Panel and Rail to their respective Legs.

To strengthen the body of the dresser and provide an installation surface for the drawer slides, install support boards between the front and back Frames. To do this, cut the boards to length, drill pocket holes at each end, and then glue and screw them between each front Stile and its adjacent Back Rail. Use the marks made in Step 11 to locate the Support Rails. Each support should run flush with the top and bottom edge of a Back Rail, and centered along the length of the adjacent Stile.

Using a miter saw, cut the Dresser Top frame pieces to length, meeting the ends at 45-degrees. Drill two pocket holes into the ends of each long frame piece.

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Using a table saw or circular saw cut the

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