Build Your Own Deck Lowes

Build Your Own Deck Lowes – Build this lower deck to entertain or find your zen. After a few weekends, you’ll have a new feeling of being in your own backyard.

Note Some store items may be special orders. Product cost, availability and item numbers may vary online or in-market. Paint colors may vary slightly from those shown. Availability varies by market by wood type and size.

Build Your Own Deck Lowes

2. Call your local building code enforcement office to discuss footing depths, deck location restrictions, whether weed barriers are required below decks, handrail requirements, necessary permits, and what inspections are required while the project is being built.

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3. Check any neighborhood conveyances or deeds near you for special rules for the deck you plan to build.

4. Once you know where the deck is, call 811 toll-free service to locate underground utilities.

After reviewing the deck layout, start by setting up the strikeboard and strings using this video guide (Project Diagram, Figure 1). After the center of the hole is marked with a stake, you can pull the strings off, but leave the strike plate in place for later.

Dig an 8-inch diameter hole in each center point to the frost depth in your area. After you’ve dug the holes, mix enough concrete to fill five holes — one in each corner and one in the middle of the deck. Make the top of the foundation level with the ground at each hole (Project Diagram, Figure 2).

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Clear grass from the area below the deck, lay down landscape fabric, and cover with about 2 inches of decking stone. This will give the area under the deck a nice look and keep grass from growing under the deck.

Put the strings back in place and use the plumb bob on the corner of the string to mark the center of each post on the concrete foundation. Set column base plate anchors at each center point and secure to concrete with 1/2 diameter concrete wedge anchors.

Cut the 4 x 4 posts (A) about 4 inches longer than needed for the deck to attach the posts. Level the strings to determine the lengths of the four corner posts.

Secure the posts in the anchors according to the manufacturer’s instructions and cut the perimeter boards to length. Then cut the deck ends (B) and sides (C) (project diagram, cutting diagram) to fit the project while continuing to account for any discrepancies. With the help of a friend, clamp the rim board so that its bottom edge is 2 inches above the ground at its highest point. Once each board is level and flush with the adjacent boards, drive the 3″ deck screws to hold them in place.

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Strengthen the plate-to-column connections by drilling 1/2-inch holes and adding two 1/2-inch carriage bolts, washers, and nuts to each connection (project drawing, Figure 3).

Use the reciprocating saw to fit the tops of the studs flush with the hoardings, and once the studs are cut, you can focus on the framing (Image 1).

Lay out the center beam (D) location (project drawing, Figure 1), centering on the end and screw the double joist hanger to the end. Place the two center beams in the hanger, but don’t connect them yet. Locate the midpoint of the beam and mark the centerpoint of the center column on the concrete foundation and measure the length of the center column. Now remove the center beam.

Anchor the center baseplate and secure the cut center post to the baseplate. Reinsert the center beam into the joist hanger (Photo 2) and secure the beam to the joist hanger and center back beam connector (Project Drawing, Figure 4).

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Mark the location of the short joists (E) (project drawing, Figure 5). Cut them to fit and secure them to the perimeter boards and center beam with joist hangers (Photo 3).

Now add the long joists (F) (Photo 4). Secure the hanger to the frame and joist with hanger manufacturer-approved fasteners, such as the #8 x 1-1/4″ joist hanger screws found in the Buying Guide.

To complete the framing of the deck, a joist is required for each quadrant. These pieces, Long Filler (G) and Short Filler (H) (Project Drawing, Figure 6), support the ends of the deck and the edges of the perimeter deck. Blocking joists were cut to fit and installed by driving nails at an angle (called toe nails) into the posts and beams (Photo 5). Space packing 3/4 in. from ends (B) and sides (C).

To hide the treated deck framing, use 1 x 12s of cedar around the perimeter (project drawing, Figure 6). Mark the center of each side of the deck, then cut the ends of the short fascia (I) and long fascia (J) at a 45 degree angle. Clip them to the deck and mark the corners of the deck where they need to be mitered to wrap around the deck (Photo 6). Then nail the planks to the deck. Continue around the frame to complete the fascia.

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If the boards are just butted together at the seams, expanding and contracting as the moisture changes, a gap will form. By cutting the boards at an angle, known as a miter) (photo 7) and joining them, the seams are hidden and any gaps become invisible.

Cut 5/4 x 6 deck boards for the perimeter trim boards, sections (K) and (L) (Project Drawings, Figure 7) so that each board overhangs the cedar board 1-1/2″ and miters at the ends (Photo 8). Secure them in place with stainless steel decorative screws.

Cut and install the center deck plate and two center cross plates using 2-1/2″ coated deck screws (Photo 9; Project Drawing, Figure 7).

Cut remaining deck to fit each quadrant and install with screws (Photo 10; Project Diagram, Figure 7). Lay the planks in each section, they may need to be left with slight gaps to create an even deck pattern without ripping narrow boards to fill any gaps. The boards should be spaced approximately 1/8 inch maximum apart.

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After paving is complete, allow the paving material to dry for a month before applying preservatives. With a large, flat surface like this, a paint roller can work faster. Composite deck materials add sophistication and durability to any deck. Here’s how to install laminate floors and deck railings. View complete deck projects from design to finishing at /BuildaDeck.

Any type of floor needs a strong frame. This deck has a frame made of pressure-treated wood. If you need help framing and setting up posts, see How to Build a Deck: Post Holes and Framing.

If you choose to install wood floors, you can find step-by-step instructions in How to Build a Wood Floor: Wood Floors and Railing.

Start by determining how many posts and post spacing you need. You should have posts on the side of the house, outside corners and at the top of the stairs. Measure the distance between the two corner posts and divide by the distance allowed between the posts. Round to the nearest whole number, then subtract 1. 15 feet ÷ 5 feet = 3 3 – 1= 2 posts in the middle Make sure the posts are evenly spaced. If it’s lined up on the joists, you can reposition it slightly. Tips Most codes allow a maximum post spacing of 6 feet.

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Cut posts short according to your plans and local regulations. The bottom end of the post will be flush with the edge and bottom edge of the end joist.

This deck has deck anchors on the joists which make the railing stronger. Along the end joists, use deck screws to attach additional supports between the floor joists and the end joists to install the anchors. Cut supports from the same 2 x lumber used for the joists (2 x 8 lumber for this deck). Tip Your native code may specify a post-installation method.

Begin installing the posts along the end joists. Screw one post into place, making sure it is plumb and extends to the bottom of the joist. Tip When attaching the posts to the deck, you can use clips to hold them in place.

Mark the joist at the center of the post, about 2 inches from the top and 2 inches from the bottom.

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Secure the second bolt through the bottom hole. There should be two carriage bolts per post, but only one anchor is needed.

Go ahead and install the post. For corner posts, add support around the post and secure with anchors. Again, cut the supports from the same material you used for the joists (in this case 2 x 8 lumber).

Along the rim joists, add similar support behind the post with screws and corner brackets, then secure the post with carriage bolts.

Once all the posts are secured, you can install the deck. For a cleaner look, use hidden deck clips and grooved composite boards. if you deck there will be parting

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