Build Your Own Butcher Block

Build Your Own Butcher Block – DIY Home Improvement• DIY Projects – All• DIY House Projects• Hallway Bathroom• Hallway Bathroom DIY Projects• Our House DIY Butcher Countertop With Undermount Sink – Part 1

I’m still working on finishing the sink for the bathroom remodel, but before finishing that project, I had to turn my attention to making my DIY sink countertop.

Build Your Own Butcher Block

This whole bathroom project is one of those “one thing leads to another” and “one project depends on another” thing. Before I really start putting this room together, I need to put the paneling on the walls. But because of the way some of it will wrap around and act as a backsplash for the sink, the paneling has to be installed

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That’s why I made a basic superstructure on the sink, and now I’m moving on to the worktop. I will be working on the new bathroom door next since the door casing needs to be in place before I can install the trim. After I install the trim, I’ll go back and finish the sink and countertop. See? I really have a method. However, it will all be over soon. 🙂

That! Absolutely! If you have beginner to intermediate building/woodworking skills and have some basic tools, you should be able to make your own butcher block worktops. There are probably several ways to do this, and it will depend on how you want to use them. For this bathroom project, I am making a 1/5 inch thick, durable butcher block countertop to accommodate the sink.

This will depend on several variables, such as the type of wood and other details you may want. If you’re happy with a less expensive wood like pine, and the worktop will be used in a space like a utility room or bathroom, and you already have all the necessary tools, you’ll probably save money to make your own. But if you want a butcher block for your kitchen worktop (i.e. the busiest and heaviest room in the house), you’d probably want a much harder wood like oak or a much higher quality wood like walnut, and maybe even fancy edges like an ogee edge. In that case, it would probably be better to leave the work of the counters to the professionals rather than making a DIY wood panel.

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But in my particular situation, it’s fine to use cheap pine wood for my DIY butcher worktop, and even though it’s the main bathroom in the house, I’m sure I’m building something that will be durable and long lasting.

Easy Butcher Block Countertops Installation

Before I get started and how I made this DIY butcher block worktop, let me show you the progress so far. I’m off to a good start, but it’s far from over. I put it together, did a preliminary sanding with 60 grit sandpaper, cut out the sink hole, filled all the cracks with wood filler, and then sanded it to a smooth surface with 150 grit sandpaper. It still needs to be painted, varnished and sanded (I want a hand rubbed finale), but it will arrive. But for now, this is how it looks.

How to Make a DIY Butcher Shop Countertop 1. Use a table saw to square the 2-inch x 3-inch edges.

I started with 2″ x 3″ pine boards. I found them in the aisle at Home Depot where they have 2 x 4’s and other 2 inch lumber and they were just under $2 each. They are made of pine, and they started out pretty rough. They actually had a stamp on them that said “stud”, so they were obviously intended for framing, which makes them quite rough. I had to dig through the available studs to find ones that looked decent and weren’t warped.

If I were to make a countertop out of those with rounded edges, I would sand for days (or use an obscene amount of wood filler) to get a flat surface.

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So the first thing I had to do to prepare these boards was to run the boards through my table saw to remove about 1/4 inch from the sides to remove those rounded edges. This left me with much sharper corners on the edges of the panels, so that when they were placed side by side, they formed a flat surface on top.

The actual dimensions of a 2″ x 3″ board are more like 1.5″ x 2.5″. So after removing about 1/4 inch from each side of the boards to remove the rounded edges, I was left with boards that were 1.5 inches thick and approximately 2 inches wide. (Actually they were

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Under 2 inches, because I used 10 boards for my countertop and ended up with a 19.5 inch countertop depth, which is what happened

, just as I would like them to appear on the counter. I looked at each panel individually to determine which side looked better and then spaced them out so I didn’t have several nodes grouped together or anything like that.

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After determining the order I wanted the boards in, I turned the boards over as I would be working on the underside of the countertop to assemble it. I made sure the boards were in the exact same order and configuration as I flipped and stacked them upside down.

I then measured the sink, marked where the center of the countertop would be and then determined the position of the sink. I used the template that came with my sink to draw where the sink would go. My marks didn’t have to be precise at this point, because this sink outline wouldn’t actually be the cutting line I use to cut the sink hole. I just needed an idea of ​​where the sink would be so I wouldn’t put screws in the opening or right next to it.

I then numbered the boards and marked where I wanted my pocket screws to be inserted. I have placed these tags, as you can see below.

I then used my Kreg hole jig (this is an updated version of the set I have) to drill the pocket holes and attach the panels one at a time. I won’t go into detail on how to use the Kreg Jig since there are about 12,000 tutorials on YouTube alone. But I will say that it is an incredibly easy tool to use and every DIYer should have one! There are some really helpful videos showing how to use the Kreg Jig. Ana White has a great video here and then here’s another quick video showing how to join the wood edge to edge like you should do for this particular project. But then again, you can just google “how to use a Kreg jig” and you’ll find a tutorial on almost any DIY blog.

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I started with the top plank in the picture above and worked my way down. This means that I started by drilling the pocket holes in board #2 and then attached that board to board #1 (using wood glue between them before I joined them!). I then drilled my pocket holes in board #3 and screwed it to board #2. Here are the first three panels joined together…

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And as I attached the panels, I used my 24″ clamp to hold them together as I bolted them together.

And then I would repeat that process to add the next board, and the next, and the next, until all the boards were joined together.

I would move the clamp down the boards as I went down the other side. And every time I attached the boards, before I added the screws, I would put my hand under the boards and feel if the boards were flush with each other on the top side of the work surface. It didn’t need to be perfect since I would be doing a lot of sanding, but I didn’t want to end up with any really significant differences in height from board to board because that would just require more sanding.

Faux Butcher’s Block Kid’s Table

, at least. The boards were a little uneven with each other and the wood glue had leaked in places. And of course, the records had those ugly stamps on them.

Before moving on to the final stage, I used my circular saw to cut the sink countertop to the exact length I needed. The remaining 3 meters will later be reduced and used as a worktop in the bedding area.

So at this point, this is what the desktop looked like. It was quite difficult, but with a lot of potential.

At this point, it would be really nice to have a planer. This would mean quick work to perfectly smooth and flatten the top. But most of us DIYers

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