Build Your Own Bed Frame

Build Your Own Bed Frame – When it comes time to buy a new bed, costs can add up quickly. The mattress itself is a big change, not to mention a new frame. Building your own bed frame is a great project for beginners and also saves you a lot of money in the process. In this article, we’re going to build a California King bed frame from scratch for under $100. You can change the dimensions of the frame to match the mattress size you want. A California King mattress is 72 inches wide and 85 inches long. Let’s get started…

Once we have all the wood for our project, we can cut the boards to size according to the cut list above.

Build Your Own Bed Frame

We’ll start by attaching our four 2×6 boards. The two longest 84 inch boards are the sides and the 75 inch boards are the top and bottom of the frame. Place these boards so that the 75-inch boards are on the outside as shown below. This will ensure a perfect fit for the mattress.

Build Your Own Sleep System: Mattress & Adjustable Base, Split King

The frame laid out with the 84-inch boards on the side, covered by the 75-inch boards on the top and bottom.

With the frame in place, attach the four corners by countersinking and screwing the top and bottom 2×6 boards. I used a clamp and some spare boards to hold everything flush while I attached them with screws.

Once your four 2×6 boards are attached, we will attach our 2x2s to the inside of the frame as dowels to hold the slats. You’ll want to attach them 1 1/4″ from the top. I put together a quick template that helped me keep a consistent distance from the top of the frame; however, this is not necessary. Be sure to use your hazelnut bits to prevent the wood from splitting.

Once the two 2×2 studs are added to the inside of our frame, we are ready to move on to attaching the center support beam.

Awesome Diy Bed Frames You Can Totally Make

For the center support beam, we want to use our 84″ 2×4 plate. Add a mark to the center of the bed frame, then line up the 2×4 accordingly. Wash the headboard with the bottom of the bed frame. This should leave 1 1/4 inches from the top, which is the same distance as our spots. Countersink and screw the board from the outside of the frame to secure it in place.

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Now we’ll add a decorative trim that sticks out to our frame. For this we will use some of our 1×3 pieces. 88 inch pieces go on the sides and a 72 inch piece goes on the bottom. Later we will add a non-overhanging piece to the frame header as it will be flush against the wall. To add our cutouts, screw the 88″ pieces to the inside of the frame. An easy way to do this is to place a replacement board in the shims, as shown below, and push the trim up. This will make the cutout stick out of the frame 1 inch.

You will then want to flush the end of the cutout with the head of the bed frame. Once flush, the bottom should have a 1 inch overhang as shown below. With the liner inside and the frame head countersunk and screwed into place. Do this on both sides. A 72″ 1×3 cutout should now fit into the bottom of the frame. Attach it using the same method.

With the side and bottom trims in place, we now want to add the 1×2 board to the head of the frame. This will allow the bed to fit against the wall. Be sure to use your hazel bits when gluing this piece or you will likely split the wood.

Diy Bed Frame Kit

Great! Our bed frame comes together beautifully. Now we are done with the main frame. All that remains is to cut the slats and attach the legs.

Make sure your slats fit your frame. Once you try the slats and they are all cut to the correct size, you can lay them on their side while you attach the legs.

I originally planned to use 2x4s or 4x4s for the legs; however, I wanted to try something a little different with some of the scrap 1×3 pieces I had left over from cutting the slats. This step is completely optional. If you’d rather save some time and effort, you can opt to use 2x4s or 4x4s for the legs, as I had originally thought. That said, here’s how I set mine up.

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Once all 4 pieces were dry back to back, I glued a piece of 1×3 to each side, leaving a slight bulge sticking out the front and back for added texture. After the final piece dried, I cut it down to 13.5 inches as shown below. I repeated this process for all four legs and then glued them on.

Diy Simple Bed Frame

Unfortunately, I did not receive pictures of the legs that were attached. To complete the process, place one leg on each corner of the bed frame directly under the stains. The cleat should rest on the top of the leg. Attach the legs with countersunk bits and screws. Depending on the size of legs you choose to use, you may need to use different sized screws. Measure the thickness of the legs and use the appropriate screw size. For example, I used 3 1/2″ screws, but if you choose to use 2×4’s, you will use 2 1/2″ screws.

Also, for extra support, I attached a 2×4 leg to the center of the center support beam. Once the mattress is in place, this support leg is not visible, but it makes the bed much more sturdy.

After taping the feet. All that’s left is to stain the wood with a stain of your choice. I used Minwax Dark Walnut. I won’t go over the details of staining, but just follow the instructions for your stain of choice and you’ll find it’s a simple process.

This is! You are all done. Not only does this bed frame look great, but it will save you a lot of money. Mattresses and bed frames can cost thousands of dollars.

Diy Modern Rustic Bed Frame Build Plans Based On The West Elm Alexa Bed

I recently purchased a California King 12 inch memory foam mattress on Amazon for about $550. Combined with this bed frame, my total cost for a new California King mattress and bed frame came to about $650. You can’t beat it! Today I’m building a Japanese-inspired mid-century modern king size platform bed. If you plan to build this for a different size mattress, simply subtract or add the difference in mattress size to the bed. This was a really fun build and a design I’ve wanted to build for a while, so I was really excited to build this one!

I started by finding three pairs of 4x4s. I did my best to find straight boards that had grain that matched as much as possible.

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Next, I ran the face of the 4x4s that I would join through the planer, as well as the opposite faces.

Next, I cut the beams to length. The dimensions are at the beginning of the article in case you missed it.

Robust And Inexpensive Bed Frame

I’m also adding studs where the joists meet. I don’t glue them, they are more to line everything up when the bed is taken apart and put back together.

At the bottom of the beams, I added holes and hidden pocket screws. This is what holds up most of the bed, along with the 2×4 bunks that will be added later. My pocket hole jig is not necessarily made to drill anything larger than 1.5″ here is a link to the video that explained how to avoid this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3EERGjCufY

I used the table saw to create a slot, or notch, where the 2×4 battens would go.

One thing I didn’t think about when I cut the slots is that the bunk will need to be able to bolt to the beam with pocket screws. I fixed it by cutting a scrap piece to fit.

This Minimal House

Next, I cut 10 2×4 slats to fit the frame. I also attached them with pocket screws. This gave the screws more meat to bite into instead of drilling directly into the 3/4″ piece above the 2x4s.

Next, I attached Industrial By Design’s 6-inch Raw Steel Haipin Leg Set. I measured 3.5 inches from each corner edge to line up the legs.

I glued the legs to simple 2×4 blocks. The client wanted the bed to be slightly off the floor. Totally optional. I used pieces of scrap 1 x 4 (actually 3/4″ thick) wherever the riser block overhangs the joists.

The top of the back had to be flush with the 2×4 supports. I marked and cut the orthogonal of the table saw.

Easy Wood Diy Headboard & Bedframe

I then cut the headstock to length and height with the circular saw. Whenever you cut plywood with the circular saw, be sure to use a straight edge with the nice side facing down.

I used the jigsaw to cut notches in the bottom corners of the plywood to fit the joists.

I then bolted the head with 2″ screws. Me too

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