Build Your Own Bar Table

Build Your Own Bar Table – All. This post is about 6 years old. It went through Pinterest and I wanted to post it on my current blog accordingly. With that said, let me show you my high pub table!

That was when we took pictures with the iPhone 5. At that time, they were the best thing for a professional photographer!

Build Your Own Bar Table

We had absolutely nothing in our “kitchen nook”. The space seemed perfect for a high pub table. I scoured the internet for good plans and ended up using Ana White’s for inspiration. It looked like a farmhouse and went well with my dining table! The image below is taken from Ana White’s website:

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Unfortunately it was pretty early on in my DIY projects so I didn’t keep track of the measurements or sizing. I used her plan for a general idea of ​​the normal sizes and layout suggested on her website.

I also changed the height and width so that it fits properly in my kitchen and my chairs at the time. As a result, I got the perfect high table for the pub!

Sign up for rare emails (let’s be honest, I mostly never email) and get my botanical print downloads for free! It’s a deal! So, I’m getting married soon and want to save some money. We thought it would be nice to have some of these tall round tables near the dance floor so people can set things up and boogie when their song comes on.

I found that their rent is $30 per table! Their purchase costs $60+ per table! So I thought a little and figured I could build them for about $20 a table, so even if I throw them away afterwards, I can save $50-60. There is also a chance that I could sell them later. (Besides, other weddings are planned later, so I’ll save them money in the worst case. Not such a bad worst case!) There are better ways and materials to create them, but I choose cheap and functional ones. There are tablecloths in the hall for 54″ round tables, so we planned to cover them up and tie the excess around the leg with ribbon or whatever my fiancée tells me nicely.

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The total for me at the moment is ~$19.93, but I’ve added a bit more hardware for ease of use:

1″ + wood screws (I have hundreds of 2.5″ left over from my deck build so I used those)

I added threaded inserts to the tops so they can be easily removed for transport. You could save a few dollars and just fuck them together.

The base of the table is a large round one on top, a 4×4 leg, and a small round one on the bottom. I was hoping I could just get the shop to cut them in half and assemble them, but their cuts were pretty rough, resulting in a 50″ table that was a bit tall for comfort.

Best Outdoor Bar Ideas

So our magic number was 44 inches for a leg, which gives us a comfortable 46-inch-high table top to put a drink or wallet on.

THE MOST IMPORTANT PART IS TO MAKE SURE YOUR SAW IS AT A GOOD 90 DEGREE ANGLE AND YOUR 4X4 IS SECURELY AND TIGHTLY ATTACHED TO THE FENCE. Otherwise, your ends won’t be parallel and you’ll end up with a wobbly table.

My process was to cut an 8ft in half, cut the end to make sure it was nice and flat, then flip it over and measure to cut off the other end.

Since I’m adding threaded inserts, I need to find the center. I’m just a square to draw a line from corner to corner that marks the X in the center.

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Depending on which type of insert you choose, this step may be different. I have tried a couple so I will cover them here.

The package containing the inserts must indicate the size of the drill. Mine says to use 11/32″, which is weird and I don’t have one, so 5/16″! Make sure you drill deep enough so that the insert and bolt are fully screwed in and out of the bottom.

The first ones I tried were with 3 small hooked teeth that you hammer in. They suck at least at the end of the grain. Try one of the others I’ve pictured above, in orange packaging.

The first one I tried, and I’m very happy with, screwed it into the pilot hole. They say use a 6mm hex wrench. EASY!

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The second one I tried to just hammer into a pilot hole of the same size. Haven’t tested for durability yet.

So you have a big wooden circle and you need to find the center. Well, the edges are rounded, so that complicates things. Fillets are made by gluing a lot of straight pieces together (hence the name “edge glue”), and seams are misleading, so don’t believe them!

I used a tape measure and, holding the zero end on one edge, ran the spool up and down the edge. You should see that somewhere it has reached a high value. In this photo I got about 23-9/16 inches in diameter. Do this in a couple of directions, and they should all line up in the center. SHOULD, mine isn’t always, so I went where most seemed to agree. round cartridges are not perfectly round, and the width of the belt confuses me. Rope could have worked better. Well, close enough! Forward! Drill where you think the center is.

Use one of the bolts to attach the top to the leg. I purposely used a drill and tightened it a bit so that it sinks a little into the wood. I know that there are pieces for this, but they will be covered with a tablecloth, so I’m not too worried. Make sure your inserts are flush (below the surface) to ensure a snug fit.

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Because the bottom is smaller, I just put a screw in the center (found the same way we did before) and then a couple on each side to keep it from spinning. I recommend the T-25 torx screws because you can easily remove them if you need to disassemble them later.

It’s still going on. If it ever stops raining, I think I’ll try to color them. If there is a shortage of time, they can just take some white paint. If I have too much time, I can cut decorative edging into the legs (wedding prep time? Ha!)

When I’m done, I think I’ll add some felt feet to help with rocking on uneven floors. The bottom circle is pretty flat, but most floors aren’t perfect, so 3 or 4 feet down should help level things out. My mission is to teach you how to confidently create magazine-worthy crafts. I used to be afraid of power tools, so I strongly believe that ANYONE can do something with their own hands.

This post contains affiliate links for your convenience (meaning if you make a purchase after clicking the link, I’ll earn a small commission, but it won’t cost you a dime more)!

Diy Bar Plans

When we started planning our playroom over a year ago, our initial idea was to build a built-in corner cubicle. As the design continued to evolve and we started making adjustments, we decided that the corner booth would be too bulky, so we needed to come up with a new solution.

We found a nice table in a West Elm bistro… and then we looked at the price tag. There was no way we could justify spending $580 on a table, so we started looking at solid bases to build our own.

Cut the 1x10x12 Pine Plank into (4) 3ft Planks. Note that they won’t be exactly 3 feet because the saw blade will cut off part of the tree, but they don’t have to be accurate.

Choose your favorite sides of the 3ft planks and arrange them to your liking. Turn the boards over and mark where you want to make pocket holes. Remember not to get too close to the edges because some of the boards will be cut off when we make the circle.

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Pocket holes are the basis of most DIY furniture pieces. Become a pro at Pocket Holes in less than an hour at Pocket Holes: Explained.

Glue and screw the boards one at a time. Add clips on both sides to keep the seams as even as possible.

You can either cut a spare board to size and screw it to the table loose enough to rotate around your piece of wood, or you can create one with string and a pencil. Screw the compass to the middle of the table and draw the outline of the table. If you are using a string and a pencil, hold the pencil straight up and down as you draw the line. Holding the pencil at different angles will change the size of the table. Our table was 35 inches across, so our string was 17.5 inches.

Cut out two support boards using a 1×2 pine board. Trim them both to about 25 inches, cutting each side at a 45 degree angle. This should be enough to cover all 4 boards, but

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