Best Puppy Training Methods For Housebreaking

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One of the most important aspects of a successful home training method is avoiding mistakes. To achieve this, the puppy should never be allowed to run around unsupervised.

Best Puppy Training Methods For Housebreaking

It only takes a few seconds for a puppy to have a minor accident on your carpet, and it is extremely difficult, if not impossible, to constantly supervise your puppy 100% of the time.

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Leash training is a method based on constant control, in which the puppy is constantly attached to you with a leash.

But because of the physical connection between you and your dog on a leash, it’s not as demanding as “pure constant supervision” where your pup can jump out at any time and you have to watch it like a hawk.

With indoor leash training, your puppy can go wherever you do and it can’t exceed the length of the leash you choose.

You take them to the room while you go to your house and they are never left alone.

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This will take away your puppy’s ability to make house training mistakes without you interrupting, correcting and redirecting him to the potty in the right place.

It’s a method that works very well and gives good results, especially when combined with a crate training method (though not necessary at all if you don’t want to crate).

First you need a leash and collar for your puppy to wear and attach to you to create a leash between you.

A 6 foot leash is ideal as it allows your pup to move around while being close enough to you that you always know what they are doing.

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Any longer and it will be too loose and tight around your and your pup’s legs, any shorter and it will be too restrictive.

For expert advice on choosing a leash, please see my guide by clicking here. And I also wrote a guide to choosing the right collar here.

As with all house training methods, you’ll also need food to reward your puppy when he poops in the right place, and deodorant to help prevent the inevitable accidents. Almost no!

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You may need a crate if crate training is part of your overall plan. You can read a detailed guide on choosing the right box by clicking here.

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And it’s very likely that you’ll need a baby gate or exercise pen to keep your puppy in a single room or small room if you have to go out and leave him alone for hours at a time.

You can read my tips and advice on essential home workout equipment by clicking here. Consider knowing what is necessary while avoiding spending on unnecessary things!

Leash training is all about tying your puppy to you and taking it with you wherever you go, so you always know what he’s doing and can always intervene before he makes house training mistakes.

First of all, the puppy must get used to the leash and collar. For instructions on how to do this, please see this article: How to Train Your Puppy on a Collar and Leash

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Once your puppy is comfortable wearing the leash and collar, you can now attach them to you or a family member anytime they are not in their crate.

Attach the 6-foot belt to yourself by pulling the belt through the handle, threading the end through the belt buckle, or wrapping it around your wrist.

I recommend not wrapping it around the ankles, as the puppy will be able to pull you this way as he gets stronger.

Now you just go about your normal day with your puppy following you everywhere you go.

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If you plan to settle down for a while, such as watching TV in the evening, you can place the puppy on a piece of furniture, such as a doorknob or a chair/table leg, to give it a little rest.

Just make sure they can’t wrap or pull things and make sure you don’t walk away and leave them unattended.

Remember that mistakes only take a second, and the point of cord training is to always have them with you to guide and correct them.

When spending time with your puppy who is attached to you, your job is to take your puppy to the bathroom on a regular schedule that is appropriate for his age and recent activity (this is explained in more detail in my article on house training puppies).

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But you still need to constantly monitor the puppy for signs that he is preparing or wanting to prevent. And since you are attached to them, it will be very easy for you to do this.

Your dog may start sniffing the floor, circling, becoming agitated, trying to get away from you, crying or sitting.

When you see the signs, you need to take the puppy to the toilet quickly and when the puppy leaves the place it is supposed to go, praise and reward it abundantly.

If your puppy starts to relieve himself and you catch him (which you should with him!), you should correct him with a comforting but “NO!” and take them out where they should go. Remember, no yelling or anger. Firm but calm.

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Once you get them in the right place and they finish what they started, be sure to praise and reward them enthusiastically.

With in-house training, you will be able to catch any mistakes and glitches and correct them

Therefore, they have experienced many lessons by doing without mistakes. It is quick to teach them and make the method more effective.

There is no way for them to avoid going off in the wrong place to break bad habits, and you also get more opportunities to praise and reward them to go to the right place.

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If you take your puppy outside for a scheduled bathroom stop, or if he makes movements to relieve himself but doesn’t go when you take him outside, bring him back inside and watch him carefully to make sure he doesn’t do anything wrong. Inside the house.

After 5, 10, or 20 minutes, depending on age, take them back outside to try again.

The important thing is if they are determined or they try first but you intervene, they will have to go soon, so this time you have to be extra careful until they leave.

Once your pup has peed and pooped outside (or in the indoor bathroom if that’s your goal), now’s your chance to give him the freedom of the leash.

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For puppies under 12 weeks, only 3 to 5 minutes. If you are 12 to 16 weeks old, give 10 minutes.

Give them 15 minutes in 16 weeks. Increase the time as they get older and prove the time you allow them that they are not wrong.

You don’t let them enter your house alone, you stay with them and are ready to respond if they move to have an accident on your carpet, they are off leash.

Over time, the amount of time they can be trusted on a leash in the house increases and increases until eventually they are house trained and you can let them roam free and stop using the leash completely.

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Although cord training is the perfect complement to crate training, some people use it because they don’t want to crate at all.

There will be times when you are alone with the puppy and need to bathe or deal with visitors, and you cannot let the puppy roam unattended during these times.

They are best in a closet when you can’t see them, but if you aren’t using them, you should invest in a baby gate to confine them to a small room, or build an exercise pen/puppy pen to catch them. .

Paper or puppy pads should also be used as a pillow in these areas. Just keep them to a minimum.

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It’s not as simple as the paper training that most hand out after a short training period. But it is more effective without the drawbacks of this method (discussed in the linked article.)

It’s not nearly as difficult as standard “constant supervision” house training, where your puppy is on a leash and allowed to roam free, so you have to watch it like a hawk.

And again, it’s more efficient because your puppy is less likely to make mistakes. With the usual steady management of Mr

I’d say it’s somewhere in between the other two methods when it comes to difficulty, maybe next to box training as a method.

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Both umbilical cord and crate training techniques allow you to loosen up