How To Install A Floating Desk

How To Install A Floating Desk – A sturdy and attractive work/study solution for small spaces is a DIY Wall to Wall Floating Desk made with butcher block counters.

When we all reunited in our new home in Georgia last month, it had been 119 days since Handan had seen his son. He felt that he was parting with every hour of the day,

How To Install A Floating Desk

When we pulled into the driveway, the dogs jumped out of the car whining with glee, tails wagging loudly. Baris stepped out, and Handan cried.

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The boy hugged him from behind, looked at his new surroundings, turned to me and asked his favorite question.

But first things first. I booked an appointment for The Boy at Roosters to get his hair cut. It’s been 151 days since he last visited, and he looks like a New Zealand goat that escaped the farmer’s shearing.

In Connecticut, everything was still closed when we left, so I had no choice but to watch the hair grow and grow and grow.

Our first order of business was to prepare his study room. There is a small closet in one of the bedrooms – the room that is now a TV room. We turned him into his study room. I will post about the makeover closet to learn later, but today I want to share with you a DIY wall-to-wall floating table that is very easy and (relatively) cheap.

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From the very large and heavy, to the very ornate and very useful, to the clean and simple, we’ve done it all.

Well, it’s $100 because it’s made of cheap particle board, and it falls apart when you want to move it to a new location.

I learned that lesson with the Connecticut Row table when I tried to pack it for this step, and it was a $400 table!

Even when building a table from scratch, the materials alone really add up. Sure you can save a lot by building a pine desk, but pine is softer than a bank manager’s hand and will scratch and gouge if you look at it too hard. When you start building with hardwood, the cost skyrockets.

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And then he did his mental gymnastics to figure out the material (and sometimes labor) costs of DIY from scratch.

After crunching the numbers, he announced that we were going to make two wall-to-wall Baris tables with unfinished butcher block counters from Home Depot.

Now, the one you see in the picture above is made of birch wood, and costs $219 for an 8 foot x 2 foot x 1.5 inch slab. Let me tell you – the thing is

! It’s a well-built table top, and the $219 price tag is really impressive considering something like IKEA

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One desk – the desk on which the gaming/programming computer sits – will be made just like the desk I made for my old office. In fact, the two IKEA ALEX drawers I used for my old office desk are now in Baris’ study. Lucky dog. I love that drawer unit!

However, its wall-to-wall gaming and programming table will be “built” by dropping the butcher block top over the drawer unit.

By the way, before this project, I had never heard of a “floating table” before. Floating shelves, yes. Table, no. My children tell me that they are very angry today, and if you don’t have it, you might as well lock yourself in the closet and slap yourself over and over again with wet noodles.

Well. I don’t have a kitchen right now, so I ran out of wet noodles. I think it is better to build!

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Okay, so if you haven’t figured it out yet, the reason I’m rambling on here is because this build is so simple. Besides the butcher block countertop, the only other materials we need are a 2 x 4, some small pieces of 2 x 2 (you can also use 2 x 4), some dirt, some poly wipes and screws.

The butcher block countertop we bought is 8 feet long, but the Baris study is only about 80 inches from wall to wall.

Man, I really want to hang out for a few days in the subdivision because it’s under construction. I would be very interested to see the workers taking out square house after square house.

Anyway, I asked The Boy for help. The butcher block countertop was heavy, and I needed his muscles to help me move it on the sawhorse. Once it’s in place, we measure and cut it to size. Since most of my tools are still packed (and some still aren’t), I used a spare oak floorboard as a safety guide. Hey, whatever works, right?

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The next step is coloring. Now, for a uniform color, it would be wiser to use a pre-stain first.

Not as smart as I am though, in this case we were going for a more rustic, unrefined look (like mine really!), so I skipped the stain and went straight to Minwax Special Walnut.

Stains can be tricky when you’re working with large pieces. You want to get it on your part of the project as quickly and fairly as possible.

Staining a piece as large as this butcher block counter would be hard work if done with the rag and loose method.

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I usually skip the rag and go straight to the brush – it’s faster for large surfaces. But the major disadvantage of applying stain is with a brush

And he got it not only for stains, but also for polyurethane. This foam applicator pad is marketed for automotive polish, but hey, DIY is about working with what you have or finding new ways to make old things. By the way, after I checked, the one I used in the picture below is not available. This is basically the same in yellow.

The next day, I use a polyurethane wipe with an applicator pad. I poured the poly directly on the wood and then wiped it down and smoothed it with a pad.

Wow, I thought the pad made it easier to stain, but it really works on polyurethane! A table this large might take 15 minutes to clean poly the traditional way, but that sealing time is reduced to about 2 minutes per slab. They are real time savers for large, multifaceted projects!

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The next day, I sanded the table with a 2000 grit disc in my random orbital sander. This gets rid of all the little bumps left by the poly. I then wipe the table with a cloth soaked in mineral spirits to remove the fine white sand dust.

We first installed the Baris computer desktop. I already told you how easy it is – we just put the desk on the drawer unit and call it a masterpiece.

The plan is simple: attach a piece of 2 x 4 to 80 inches on the long wall and two small pieces of 2 x 2 on the adjacent wall. The table is 24 inches deep, and we wanted all the support pieces to be hidden, so we cut the 2 x 2 pieces to 18 inches.

Now, with a table of this weight, it is critical to brush the supports into the studs. Drywall anchors won’t cut it for this one.

Butcher Block Floating Desk. Homedepot

While we were at Home Depot buying wood, Handan remembered the studs and said, “We need to buy a stud finder, love. I think you haven’t come yet.”

“No need, my love!” I said. “I am here!” I burst my grain that was eating cheese and flexed my fat-encrusted muscles.

He smiled at me and pulled the stud finder off the shelf. “Look at you, my love,” he said and slapped the stud finder on my chest.

Back in Baris’ workroom, I gave him the stud finder, showed him how it worked, and then we marked where I was going to get the 2 x 4’s.

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We want this table to be the same height as the others – 29 inches – so we mark the wall at 27.5 inches to account for the table’s 1.5 inch thickness.

Next, I held the 2 x 4 against the will and transferred the stud marks to the board. I then drilled through the center of the board at each mark. This will make it easier to install.

With the level placed on the 2 x 4, Baris held it against the wall and I drove in the first screw. I used 2 1/2 inch deck screws, because their heads don’t fit as easily as the phillips ones do.

Checking the level again, I drove the second screw. After that, Baris fired, and I drove the remaining screws. Since The Boy and I were busy (and Handan was on some other errand), we all forgot to take pictures of the 2 x 4 assembly. It happens a lot – especially during critical parts of our project, lol!

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After screwing up the two side supports, we carefully lowered the desk into place. It’s heavy enough that I don’t think it’s necessary to mount the desk on supports, but you can certainly do it under a desk with corner brackets.

Yes, after

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