How To Build A Headboard For Bed

How To Build A Headboard For Bed – I love the look and was pretty sure I could make it my own, so I gave it a go and it turned out (almost) as I imagined. I will explain later. But for now, the details!

Want to make a DIY half circle headboard? The entire project can be completed in a weekend and costs less than $200 (or even less if you already have some of the basic materials).

How To Build A Headboard For Bed

MDF Panels – I used 4 2×4 panels to make it easier to transport in the car. You don’t necessarily have to go with this exact size and the number of panels needed will vary depending on the size of your bed. My bed is a king size bed and full headboard

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Upholstery Foam: Also called high density foam. Comes in white and green. I think the green is easier to find, BUT if you don’t have a very thick fabric to cover it, the green will show through your fabric and make it look green when it’s all done. This is what happened to mine. Not a big deal but wanted to mention. If you can only find green, you can always add a thin white fabric (or interfacing fabric, etc.) before adding your final layer of fabric.

Foam is available at craft stores and even some home improvement stores. It comes in different thicknesses and you can use any thickness you want.

I think 2 inch foam is the thickest I would do for this project and 1 inch foam is the thinnest I would do for this project, if you are looking for a guide.

Fabric Measurements: Make sure when purchasing your fabric that the width is at least 4-6 inches larger than the full height of the headboard. For example, the full height of my headboard is 48 inches, so I needed the width to be at least 52-54 inches wide in order to completely cover the headboard with enough room to staple it to the back of the head. And for length, you’ll want to get yards that are at least 4-6 inches longer than the finished length of the headstock.

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You need the extra width and length so you can pull the fabric up and over the foam and back to the back of the head for stapling when the project is in its final stages.

1. Start by lining up the four MDF panels (or however many pieces you’ve decided to use), so that they all touch. They can be placed on the floor in a straight line while standing, as long as the angle of each is the same (like if they were leaning against a counter or something).

Then, with a tape measure, find the bottom center (or very close to the center if you’re using four panels like I do). Then, using a hammer and nail to mark this point OR a piece of very strong tape (like a few pieces of duct tape), attach a long string (this would be the bottom center of the panels).

Figure out the size of the half circle you want to create. Attach a marker to this point on the string and create the half circle.

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The nailed or glued string will act as the even tension you need to create a perfect half circle. And the length of the string will determine the total size of the half circle.

2. Now that you have the headboard drawn, you can cut out the individual MDF pieces with a jigsaw, following the lines you just created.

Once all the pieces are cut, line them up again to make sure all the edges flow smoothly into the next panel. If so, you can move on to the next step. If not, make the necessary adjustments and trim if necessary.

3. After cutting the panels to shape, you will have some scrap pieces left over. Don’t throw them away! You can use them.

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Cut scrap pieces into long strips 2-3 inches wide and as long as you can get them. These will be used as supports to connect the panels and make the pieces solid / strong.

4. Next, line up the head pieces on the floor (mala / back side up) so they form a half circle shape. And make sure each piece touches the next. You want them to be as close as possible.

Now glue the long strips of scrap MDF to each panel with a generous amount of wood glue, connecting pieces side by side, over the seam (as shown in the step photo).

Repeat this process over and over, in as many places as you think necessary to secure the panels. You can use my photo as an example. I just used every piece of scrap MDF I had.

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While you’re trying the wood glue, if you have something heavy (like books) you can put on top of the pieces to help them make a strong connection overnight, go for it. I used what I had around.

5. If you haven’t already, move the header out at this point. Because the next step involves spray adhesive and you don’t want to spray that stuff inside.

With the head facing up, spray the top half of the head with spray adhesive. Then quickly pull the first piece of foam, directly over the headboard and press with your hands to help it adhere. I used a full uncut roll on the top and it almost completely covered the top of the headboard (see photo of the two small edges that weren’t covered).

The bottom half of the headstock is much longer and I knew it wouldn’t cover everything. So I cut the second piece of foam in half and attached them to each end of the bottom (see photo) with the spray adhesive again.

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At this point, there is a foam overhang pretty much around the head, which will be reduced in the next step.

6. Allow the spray adhesive to dry a little (15 minutes or according to the packaging). Then, raise the headboard with the help of a friend or use something tall to rest on it.

And then, using a serrated knife or electric knife, very carefully shave/cut off the excess foam from the headstock. Try to make the cut at a 90 degree angle all the way around so you don’t have any visible pieces missing when the headboard is covered and finished.

Note: You will use every piece of foam you cut to fill the other areas of the headboard, so keep that in mind.

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Once all the excess is cut off. Spray the adhesive and fill the top side parts of the headboard that are not already covered in foam first, as they will be the most visible. Then use any remaining scrap foam to cover the bottom center area that still has no foam.

If you use the same amount (and size) of foam as I did, you’ll be left with a small area in the bottom center that won’t have any foam. It will never be seen when it is finished and installed. So I didn’t think it was important enough to buy another foam roll as they are quite expensive.

Obviously, you can buy a third foam roll if you think it will bother you.

So when I completed this project, I did not add any interfacing fabric or foam on top of the upholstery foam. I went straight to the linen fabric. And to save costs, I think it was a good choice. BUT for design purposes, it wasn’t exactly the one

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Choice Because the linen fabric was a little thin and when the headboard was finished, everything had a green tint to it. You could see the color of the foam through the fabric.

That said, you have two options for the next step. If you have a thick fabric that doesn’t change color when placed over the foam, you’re ready to cover the fabric header and finish inside the project. BUT if your fabric is thin and/or you can see the color through the fabric, you will need to add an underlayer of white fabric OR a layer of interfacing fabric / batting fabric.

Once you have that part figured out, it’s time to complete the headboard by stapling the fabric (or fabrics) around the headboard.

Pull the fabric over the headboard and staple it to the back of the headboard.

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I like to start in the center and work my way out. After you’ve inserted the first staple, go to the opposite end, stretch the fabric as tight as you can get it, and staple the other side of the fabric down. Also do this on the sides of the head, in a few key places, i

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