Custom Built Garage Cabinets

Custom Built Garage Cabinets – Introduction Store camping gear, tools, toys and clothes in this large garage (or basement) storage closet. Sliding doors keep everything clean and hanging on the wall keeps everything dry and moldy.

At 7 feet tall, 2 feet deep, and 16 feet long, this cabinet not only holds a lot of stuff, but handles volumes that other cabinets can’t: camping gear, bench gear, outdoor toys. You can hang out-of-season clothes on the hooks. Large sliding doors hide everything well and provide quick, easy access.

Custom Built Garage Cabinets

Using birch trim and AC plywood on the doors and partitions, the project cost us over $1,000. By simply replacing oak or lavan doors and AC plywood with oriented strand board (OSB), you can cut the cost by a quarter.

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How fast is this project? If you follow it, you can finish most of it in one day. Plan another day to finalize the details and start finishing. In addition to standard hand tools such as a tape measure, level, frame square, and speed square, you’ll need a circular saw and a drill. A power miter saw and pneumatic trim nailer make trimming easy, but not necessary.

Don’t let this sliding cabinet door DIY project fool you. The cabinet is just a basic box: nothing more than a simple frame covered with plywood. Installing doors is exactly the same as installing sliding closet doors. All you need are inexpensive hollow core doors and sliding door hardware.

We designed this sliding wardrobe DIY to fit six doors and fit against a straight wall, but you can easily modify it to suit your needs. You can make the cabinet wider or narrower by changing the number or size of the doors. Change the plan if you want to attach it to the left wall. You can build the cabinet close to the ceiling, but you will have to change the order of construction. To do this, start by attaching the ceiling frame to the studs and the ceiling. Then attach it vertically to the walls. And finally build the base including the plywood floor and attach it to the wall.

If you have block or concrete walls in your garage, attach the studs, uprights and top frame with lag shield anchors and screws or expanded concrete anchors. If you build a cabinet with exposed studs, you will need to install horizontal blocking between the studs in areas that do not directly line up with the existing studs.

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The most critical part of the project is getting the base square, level, and straight before you attach it to the wall. If your wall is curved (like ours), you will need to attach the back of the frame before attaching it to the wall.

Start by drawing a level chalk line on the wall indicating the top of the bottom frame. We set our cabinet about 24 inches off the floor. Next, use a stud finder to find and identify studs. Cut temporary 2×4 legs that support the floor and extend 3-1/2 inches below the chalk line and then attach them to the wall. Make another set of legs 1/4 inch shorter than the first set to support the front edge and add a brace to each. Attach the base (picture A) with nails or screws and place it on the legs. Attach the front legs through the bracket with screws and attach the base to the wall with a temporary screw at each end.

Using a level, adjust the height of the front legs by tucking them under them so that the frame is level from front to back at both ends. Next, attach the smaller 1/2 inch blocks. Stretch the plywood over both ends of the base and a string or chalk line between them. Use a third block of 1/2-in. plywood to check the gap between the front 2×4 and the strings. Insert shims as needed to create a stable 1/2 between the wall and the frame. The distance between strings is 2×4. If your wall is straight, you don’t need to add any chips. Lag-screw frame on supports. Finish the base by inserting it into the plywood.

Cut the 2x2s to length and screw them together to form vertical frames. For maximum strength, spread a bead of construction adhesive over the face of the 2x2s before attaching the plywood to one side of each frame. To ensure the frames are square, be careful to cut a square of plywood and align it to the frame before nailing it. Use the dimensions in the picture to determine the sections and make square alignment lines on the plywood base with the frame square. Use a 4-ft. Level to extend the layout lines on the wall.

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If the uprights are not attached to the wall studs, use screw-in drywall clips to secure them. These anchors do not support the cabinet. They hold the plant upright until the top is formed. Make sure each upright is plumb and has a square base.

Since the uprights hold the base, they must be securely fastened to the base. With a spade, drill a 3/8-in. Hole in bottom 2×2, base plywood and 2×4 framing. Connect the exterior directly to the base with a 6-in. Hex machine screws, washers, and nuts, and center straight on base with 4-in. versions. After the top frame is installed, repeat this process for the top.

The top frame has the same dimensions and design as the base frame, but is made of 2x2s instead of 2x4s. When you cover the frame with plywood, use the edges of the plywood as a guide to make them straight and square.

Locate and mark the studs along the line where the top is located. Then lift the top (plywood side down), align the ends and attach the frame to the wall. If your situation is similar to ours, a narrow 6-in. The gap between the cabinet top and the ceiling, this part is not fun. But it is very important to securely attach the top to the supports. If there is a gap between the wall and the frame, add strips. Then clamp the top vertically and clamp the other side of the plywood to all the supports. Also, attach the planter to the base. Then nail the plywood panels upright to attach the frame. We used birch plywood on the open left side to match the doors. This piece of outer plywood is 6 inches longer than the inner plywood to cover the top and bottom framing.

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Trim the bottom and upright front edges with trim boards. The upper trim is raised to hide the door track. Start by cutting the trim boards to cover the uprights and screw them into 2. Finish the nails. Trim the 3-1/2-inch-wide board to fit snugly against the wall. Complete the trim by cutting and fitting the top and bottom (horizontal) boards to fit between the ends.

Flip the door tracks up, using 1-inch spacers from the back of the upper trim to set them. We used two 8-ft. Cut the tracks and ends so that there is only one joint in the middle of the track. Make sure the track sections match up perfectly so the doors slide smoothly.

Screw two rollers on the back of each door. After that, you can loosen the screws to raise or lower the door for a perfect fit.

Install the hinges and tilt the doors to align the roller wheels on the track to install them. Hang three doors on the inside rail and three on the outside. Then tilt the doors, and if it is difficult for you to install the front doors, loosen the adjusting screws on the wheels and extend them to the maximum height. After installing the doors, slide into the cabinet and adjust the wheels so that the doors are hinged and level with each other.

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Complete the door installation by placing the door guides on each upright and midway between them. Locate them where the doors overlap the back, 2-5/8 inches from the front edge of the trim.

Hollow core doors are sturdy and inexpensive, so they make great shelves for projects like this. We used inexpensive, 18-inch double-sided cabinet doors. You can’t cut a hollow core door to different widths, but you can cut it to any length you like and butt the hollow end. We supported our shelves with adjustable metal shelf standards and brackets.

Glue the cut end of the hollow core door into the wood block. Clamp the cardboard mesh inside the door to make room for the block. All that’s left is two coats of polyurethane brush on the shelves, load up your new storage unit and say goodbye to the clutter in your garage.

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