Corner Desk Plans

Corner Desk Plans – Office corners can be a great way to expand your space – whether you’re using a corner for a computer or a workspace.

You can build your own corner worktop with this simple plan. Create bases to match your storage needs to create the perfect corner desk system!

Corner Desk Plans

Shown with open shelf plinth and open plinth drawer. Check out all the plans in the Modular Office collection to customize your corner desk top with the perfect base.

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Work on a clean, level surface and use proper safety precautions and equipment. Go over the plans before you start so you have a clear understanding of how the plan will be drawn up. Drill and countersink the screws using glue. Check for squareness after attaching each panel.

Peak measurement. Measure the tops of your base and see if they fit in the 15 1/2″ x 21″ opening. If not, adjust the cutting length in step 3.

Table pieces. Cut out the table pieces as shown above. For corner, blue, cut 38″ x 38″ square. Then mark 2 sides 23 1/2″ from the back. Draw a 45 degree angle between the two points and cut the corner.

Trim pieces. Attach the decorative pieces to the bottom of the table top with 1 1/4″ screws and glue.

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Starting at the red panel, attach it 3″ from the back edge and 1″ from the front side edge as shown above.

Then attach the green boards, leaving a 16 1/2-inch gap between the two green boards. Then attach the white boards. Where the white boards intersect the table top joint, attach them to the corner and side pieces of the table top.

Then glue the yellow trim piece in place. Finally, measure and cut the pink piece, raising the ends at a 45-degree angle. Use glue and let the glue dry so that the piece is flat.

Foot Build the leg out of 1×3 board by gluing 2, 1 1/4″ screws and attaching with clamps. Allow to dry and attach the remaining 1×3, again with glue, clamps and screws. Leave to dry. You can attach the leg to the table top with a top screw, frame screw, or using corner brackets.

Building A Wooden Desk, Need Some Input.

If you want to finish the edges of the plywood work surface, use an edge iron. Smooth the edges. Ambrosia Maple… you either love it or you hate it. Fortunately, most people love it and so do I! That’s why I was so excited about this project; Custom-sized corner office desk in ambrosia and soft maple. This desk was made for my client, who is a retired engineer, so he had very detailed specifications for the size and orientation of this desk in relation to his office space. I once again had the opportunity to mix wood, which I love to do, ambrosia maple, which made up the entire base of this table, and mixed in regular soft maple for the top.

Due to the size of the room that this desk was going into, there were very specific size restrictions that I had to adhere to in order to accommodate doors, floor shelves, etc. The desk should be able to collapse to slide into the hallway and doorway.

Armed with this information, I began sketching out a few different design options. I knew we wanted a cabinet, or similar, to the left and right of the corner desk, but should they be open cabinets? do you have drawers We weren’t quite sure yet. Also, since it was in a corner, I needed a support post for the back corner of the table; And it should be removable.

These are rough sketches that show the design concept and the overall size and orientation of the table. On the left side of the table you can see an early concept of what we had in mind for the cabinet on the left, but we ended up with that layout and did other things, but we had a plan.

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The table top was to be solid maple and I was going to create/use a full length bevel where the top two sides intersected in the middle. It would have been easier to have one side of the top extend all the way and then have the other side of the top rest on it, but I think I just want to complicate my work and think it would look like a beveled corner. better; Provided I can pull it off!

The base of this corner table is made entirely of ambrosia maple wood. This meant I needed quite a bit of 4/4 for most of the baseboard and bottom trim, with about 8/4 to replace the four posts I decided on for the right side cabinet. Here are some 4/4 maple boards I managed to get; Lots of ambrosia here!

The final thickness of the maple top would be 1 inch, so I chose some nice and clean 5/4 pieces of soft maple. I also bought a 12 foot board so I could use one length of board to make the top left and right sides; This will eliminate waste.

So making the table base and top is a pretty simple cabinet build, but there were a few things to consider in this design. First, the entire piece is made of solid wood, so the movement of the wood must be taken into account. For example, on the left side of the table with the cabinet there are two solid panels that form the front and back of the cabinet structure. I added trim detail to the top and bottom of both the left and right cabinets, but on this left side, with solid panels, this means the panels will be placed crosswise in relation to the panels. This could cause a problem if I glue or nail this trim. With the change of seasons, the plates may crack. So, to accomplish this, decorative parts are attached to these parts, from the back, with elongated holes. This will allow the panels to “breathe” and the casing to remain intact.

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This movement of the wood is not a problem on the right side cabinet, so all decorative parts are simply glued.

To dress them up a bit, I added a rounded edge to the bottom edge of the top trim pieces and added a little ogee profile to the bottom trim pieces. Then all corners were also turned to me.

The left and right side cabinets also had one adjustable middle shelf each. The idea was that the books would most likely be placed in the left-hand cabinet, while the printer and paper would be placed on the open, right-hand cabinet. In the future, the shelves can accommodate different sized printers and different sized books.

During the build, the client also decided to add a drawer to the right side of the table. It was a bit of a challenge because that side of the table isn’t very long, so we had to take care of that. I made a simple full drawer front of ambrosia maple.

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The top was pretty straight for the most part. I just needed to make sure the whole top was nice and flat and even. Since the seam was going to join, it was crucial that everything was straight and even, or the seam would look terrible.

Due to the size of this top, it was necessary to disassemble it to fit the hall and the room. I used my miter saw and a large 45 degree miter gauge to fit and cut the two top halves. Next, I need to straighten the top and put it back together, but also be able to pull it apart.

From the top and cut the corresponding slots on the other side. They adjusted the left and right parts. I took large discs for the table to connect both sides. I’m pretty sure I got them from Lee Valley, but I don’t think they make them anymore. They work by screwing half a disc on each side of the top. Then the big cap goes over them and you twist the cap and it joins the two sides.

To enhance the natural character of the ambrosia maple, I decided to use the tried and true Danish oil on this piece. I just rubbed it with a cloth in two layers and after a few minutes it was sprayed.

Diy Corner Desk Ideas With Step By Step Plans

Once finished, I sanded the entire piece down with 0000 steel wool and paste

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