Build Your Own Bookshelf

Build Your Own Bookshelf

Build Your Own Bookshelf – Assemble a simple, portable 3ft by 8ft wooden bookshelf in about 20 minutes using minimal tools and less than 1% waste, for about $60. The basic concept can be modified to create a shelving system of any size.

As a professional carpenter, furniture maker and designer/builder, I see many home carpentry projects that are heavily rebuilt and redesigned. One of the goals of this guide is to avoid the unnecessary over-construction that I often see on this site and that I see every day when I work in the housing industry. Many of the building methods we (in the US) use today are terribly wasteful, despite the advances made in materials science and structural design, because most people in home building, from architects and engineers to carpenters, are mired in tradition. , to do something a certain way “because that’s how it’s always been done” instead of consulting the best scientific evidence available, or even questioning one’s own assumptions about the “right way to do it”. I’m not going to break the tradition either. Many of the tricks, techniques and tools that I use on a daily basis are definitely “old school” but seem to have been forgotten.

Build Your Own Bookshelf

Thanks to my dad for introducing me to this style of shelving and for building a particularly fine example (using 2×4 and 2×12 painted spruce, black washers and brass acorn nuts) that is at least 25 years old and is everything. still in use.

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Slide a wing nut onto the stem before cutting each section of solid thread. After cutting the stem, remove the wing nut over the cut end to “drive” (repair) the threads.

You should also recheck the length of your solid thread rods. I would make a layout of one and try it out before cutting them all. It should be long enough to hook a couple of threads and fit snugly without punching through the cap nut. The actual “cap” part of the cap nuts is quite thin, and if the entire thread is even slightly too long, it will pierce through the end when you tighten it.

Holding the tape in your left hand and hooking the end of the tape to the right end of the board, mark:

Then mark 1-3/4 inches (center line) across the board at each previous mark and use a nail, awl, or center punch to make indentations in the wood and guide the drill.

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Using a 9/32″ drill bit, fully drill a 1×4 hole in the four marked locations. Try to keep the hole as straight as possible, although a high degree of precision is not required.

Using the first piece drilled as a guide, drill the remaining seven pieces. Use a clamp or just your hands to align the first part of the “template” with each subsequent part. Use the same piece of template for the other seven.

If you want a more finished look (ha!), now is the time to sand, color, and seal your work. This will be much easier to do now, while the part is not assembled.

Place a washer and nut on each end of a solid threaded piece. Note: when cutting washers from a sheet of metal, a “belly” is formed. Like a biscuit or cookie, the top edge is slightly rounded and the bottom edge is slightly rough. Notice the belly by placing the rough edge against the wood and the smooth edge out. Pro.

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Place the top and bottom shelves in place on top of all threads, leaving 2 inches outside of the uprights. The uprights pinch or pinch the shelves in place, so carefully tighten the nuts to keep everything together.

Assemble the other pairs of uprights around the top and bottom shelves, leaving a 26″ gap between the uprights.

Slide the remaining two shelves the entire length of the unit over the solid threads and “snap” them into place.

Check the shelf assembly for squareness by measuring from corner to corner. If the two dimensions are the same, it’s a square.

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Tighten all nuts while using the tool of your choice on each end of each rod. Just press them down; no need to pull them tight with a “gorilla”.

Tightening the nuts presses the posts against the shelves, holding them in place and providing shear strength (due to friction) to the entire assembly. I know of an 8 foot tall, 12 foot long version of these shelves that survived several small earthquakes and was fully loaded with hundreds of books. Once the nuts are tightened on my smaller versions, I (only 240 pounds) find it very difficult to “hang” the shelves by pressing on one end of them, trying to make them collapse: I can’t. Hello friends. ! If you follow me on Instagram or Facebook then you are familiar with the new series I recently started called Buy or Build?. Every week I post a different piece of furniture and ask my friends on Instagram and Facebook: would you buy or build this? If the majority voted for Build It! and at least one person accepts the challenge, then I make plans for the building. Sounds like a fun challenge, right?

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So here’s our first contender: the Toscana bookshelf. Beautiful, is not it? But is it worth almost 800 bucks?!

I’m excited to share the very first Buy it or Make it project with you! This gorgeous bookshelf was built by my Instagram friend Laura @semi_domestic. Didn’t she do an amazing job? I’m drooling. And Laura says it only cost $80 to build – can you believe it? For a retail price of $755, you could build several of these bookshelves!

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Laura recommends attaching the shelves before moving the bookshelf, otherwise you risk breaking the X-pieces because they are not strong enough to support the entire weight of the bookshelf. Shelves will add stability and strength to the entire product.

Big thanks to Laura @semi_domestic for accepting the very first Buy or Build challenge – you rocked this build! I think I just need to build one for myself!

Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram and Facebook for the latest Buy or Make Challenges. Have a good week, friends, and now go make sawdust! How to build a bookshelf from a single sheet of plywood in just 5 steps! This beautiful DIY shelf is a great way to display photos and knick-knacks. Create your own freestanding bookshelf with blueprints and tutorial!

If you have been following me for a very long time, then you know that for some reason I always agree to make new furniture for my parents. Maybe it’s all about “they brought me into this world” so I guess that’s the least I can do haha.

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This is another “mom project” that I’m happy to share. She wanted a simple standalone bookshelf for her living room to display paintings, knick-knacks and the like. This was a pretty simple build and I’m sharing the plans below.

If you’re interested in other projects I’ve created for my parents in the past, here are a few:

NOTE. To assemble this project, it was necessary to cut a sheet of plywood. Check out my post here on how I cut sheets of plywood quickly and accurately with a circular saw.

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These plans include plywood cutting charts, detailed measurements, and assembly instructions for this simple, standalone bookshelf. But, below is the tutorial.

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To start, I ripped the plywood sheet into two 16″ wide strips and one 15″ wide strip using a circular saw and a Kreg Rip Cut. If you’re not familiar with Rip Cut, check out this post to see how I use it to cut plywood sheets.

I set the 15″ wide strip aside to use as shelves later, and cut the 16″ wide strips into two long side panels and two short top and bottom panels. Find the exact dimensions in the plans here.

I used a Kreg pocket hole jig to drill pocket holes at the ends of the short pieces to use as the top and bottom of the bookshelf.

To assemble the frame of the freestanding bookshelf, I screwed the four pieces together with 1 ¼″ countersunk screws to form a “box” as shown below.

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NOTE: The bottom was bolted on so that the top of the bottom shelf is 2 ½ inches from the bottom edge of the plywood.

I cut a piece of plywood ¼” thick from the sheet and attached it to the back (as shown above). And there I had a free-standing bookshelf carcass.

Note: I love building cabinets because I like to say the word “frame” as often as possible. Try it 🙂 It’s fun.

To trim the side panels and give them a bit of visual interest, I glued and nailed 1×2 and 1×3 on the sides. Everything was 1×3 except for the front part. I made it 1×2 because the front border will add extra width later.

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I built a face frame for the front and secured it with ¾″ pocket hole screws and 1 ¼″ pocket hole screws. Frame dimensions should

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