How To Change A Sink Drain

How To Change A Sink Drain – Introduction Quick and easy fix for a leaky kitchen sink strainer. Do-it-yourself basket filter changes in as little as an hour and save on plumber visits.

Fill the sink with water and place a Kleenex between the bottom of the sink and the sink. If the fabric has absorbed some water, the basket strainer is leaking and it’s time to learn how to remove the sink drain.

How To Change A Sink Drain

Use slip joint pliers to loosen the coupling nut at the bottom of the kitchen sink strainer basket, then slide the nut completely off the threads. While the basket is spinning, hold it as shown.

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Use 16-in. Slip joint pliers or a screw wrench to unscrew the kitchen sink strainer locknut. Insert the handles of a pair of pliers into the graphic grid from above and place the screwdriver between the handles to keep it stationary while the whole basket rotates. Reach across the front of the sink, or have a helper hold the screwdriver from above. If you can get the drain out of the way, you can insert the handles of the pliers into the filter grate from the bottom to make it better.

Roll plumber’s putty into a pencil-sized rope between your hands, and wrap it around the rim of your kitchen sink drain. Press the kitchen sink strainer down firmly into the putty, add the rubber washer, friction ring, and locknut under the sink, and tighten the locknut again.

If you find a puddle of water in the cabinets under the sink, it may be the result of a leaking basket strainer. Old plumbing fixtures can be difficult to remove, but we’ll show you how to take them apart and put them back together without stress. You can buy all the necessary supplies at a hardware store or home center.

To make sure the leak is coming from the basket filter and not the fittings, test the basket for leaks as shown in Photo 1. After confirming that the basket filter is leaking, begin the removal process (Photo 2). Photo 3 shows how to remove the strainer jam nut so the basket fits snugly over the sink. If the locknut is rusted in place, spray it with penetrating oil. If you don’t have pliers big enough to get a good grip, loosen the locknut by hitting it with a hammer and an old chisel. (If the locknut won’t move, see the next step below.) Completely remove the locknut, friction ring, and washer, and remove the old basket from the sink.

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Use a plastic putty knife to scrape off the old putty to avoid scratching the sink. Seal the new basket in the sink with plumber’s putty as shown in Figure 4. Plumber’s putty will not work on some new sinks, but will be labeled as such on those sinks. If you can’t use plumber’s putty, use non-water-based silicone. When you tighten the jam nut in place, excess putty will squeeze out between the new basket strainer and the sink. Wipe it off with a cloth or paper towel. Make sure to insert a cardboard friction ring between the rubber washer and lock nut so that the lock nut can turn freely without jamming on the washer.

If all else fails, clamp the metal cutting wheel into the rotary tool and cut the lock nut. Cut until you reach the cardboard ring above the nut. Do not cut the sink. If the nut still won’t turn, insert a chisel into the cut area and hit it with a hammer to break it open. Wear goggles.

You’ll need to spend at least $50 to get a high-quality kitchen sink basket strainer assembly with a durable finish and reliable stop. The best filters have a spin lock or a twist-off plug. Spinlock detents have no wear parts, but screwing them in and out can be annoying. The spin-down style is easier to use, but occasionally the O-ring needs to be replaced.

Avoid push-fit filters with non-replaceable neoprene plugs or plastic buttons. Plastic parts will crack and may lose their sealing ability when exposed to boiling water.

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This article was co-authored by James Schuelke and staff writer Christopher M. Osborne, Ph.D. James Schuelke and his twin brother David are co-owners of Twin Home Experts, a licensed plumbing, leak testing, and mold inspection company headquartered in Los Angeles, CA. James has over 32 years of home service and commercial plumbing experience and has expanded Twin Home Experts into Phoenix, Arizona and the Pacific Northwest.

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When you pull that rod sticking out from behind the bathroom faucet, the drain plug should pull down and block the sink. But what if the stopper doesn’t pull and you can’t put your laundry in it? Or, worse, what if the stopper gets stuck and you can’t empty the sink? Your first instinct might be to call a plumber, but you can save some money and gain some satisfaction by replacing the sink plug yourself. Whether you just want to replace the plug mechanism or the entire drain and plug system, you can trust most DIYers to do the job with ease.

This article was co-authored by James Schuelke and staff writer Christopher M. Osborne, Ph.D. James Schuelke and his twin brother David are co-owners of Twin Home Experts, a licensed plumbing, leak testing, and mold inspection company headquartered in Los Angeles, CA. James has over 32 years of home service and commercial plumbing experience and has expanded Twin Home Experts into Phoenix, Arizona and the Pacific Northwest. This article has been viewed 258,656 times.

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To replace a sink stopper, first follow the vertical strip of the stopper under the sink. Then loosen the clamps that connect the rod to the corner rod that goes into the drain by clamping and unclamping. Then turn the nut holding the corner bar and pull it off. Loosen the screw securing the extension and lift the drain plug. To install the new plug, push the new sink into the opening and tighten the nut to secure it in place. Then go under the sink and reattach the angled pivot rod to the extension rod and tighten all the nuts. Test the plug and check under the sink to make sure there are no leaks. For tips on how to unhook your exhaust, read on! Do you need to know how to replace your sink drain? Or maybe you’ve hired a plumber in the past. Well I’m here today to tell you that this is not a difficult project and I know you can do it!

I think the plumbing gods have been smiling on me lately. After a small leak turned into a major kitchen remodel, this crack in the drain led to another costly leak.

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I don’t usually check the drain on our sink, but I was just checking under my son’s sink when I noticed a crack in the drain. Notably, there were no drips on the dresser. Before I got the new gutter, I gently signaled to the family that they wanted to use another sink in the house. (I’m subtle, aren’t I.)

Reach behind the drain and unscrew the cap around the pop ball and rod. Take them out of the drain. (FYI, if your popups are broken, you can use this tutorial to fix your popup blocker.)

Moen 131553nl Push Button Bathroom Sink Drain Assembly (with Overflow)

Look under the sink and find the P-trap. Loosen the slide nuts of the p-trap on the wall and drain. (See this p-trap removal tutorial for more details.)

Pull the P-Trap down to release it from the drain. Pour any excess water and gunk into the basin.

The tail on my drain assembly is plastic and crumbles in my hand (that’s why it looks like I jumped to the front.)

Use pliers to loosen the nut on the drain pipe and remove it. If the nut is stuck, spray a little WD-40 on it and wait about 10-15 minutes.

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Insert the flange ring into the top of the sink (I did not use plumber’s putty under the flange because there is a gasket under the flange, but your instructions may call for plumber’s putty. Make sure to follow the specific instructions for the drain.) of the drain assembly The rest is inserted into the sink through the bottom.

Tighten the nut on the bottom until the gasket begins to unroll and the drain assembly is properly seated in the sink.

Install the back of the p-trap into the waste pipe going into the wall. Tighten both slide nuts hand tight.

I usually

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