Do It Yourself Countertops

Do It Yourself Countertops – Introduction When I was envisioning new countertops for this kitchen, it was clear to me that nothing would look as good as marble. But marble is soft and porous, making it susceptible to scratches, stains and chipping. It is also expensive. Then I found this epoxy coating that you pour over the existing countertop. I was blown away by how easy it is to replicate the look of a marble slab – at a tenth of the cost. Everyone was amazed at the change. You have to look carefully to see my mistakes that give away: a couple of drips down one edge and a slight texture of orange peel in the corner from overworking the top coat. The plate is solid, we dragged heavy pots and pans without damage. If your countertops need a refresh, consider epoxy coating for a stunning new look.

Cutting the backsplash is unnecessary and adds extra work. But I really wanted the look of a real marble slab. Using an oscillating tool and a carbide blade, I scored the back, flush with the rest of the counter. After the backsplash has been removed, I have to glue a piece of wood between the counter and the wall to fill the gap. Then I sanded everything down. You should also remove the sink before applying the epoxy.

Do It Yourself Countertops

An old carpenter once warned that applying finish on sharp edges will not work; it also does not work with epoxy. Epoxy needs rounded edges to bond well to corners and flow through. Finally, use a 1/8-in. round bit with a milling cutter positioned horizontally so that the bit can follow the shape of the leading edge. If the front edge is not rounded, use a 1/4-in. or 3/8-in. round-over bit.

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Fill all gaps and seams with universal body filler. This includes the miter layer, the corner in the front corner, and the gap between the counter and the back. Fill and Smooth exposed chipboard after milling or cutting. The body filler is a two-part system that hardens within minutes of mixing, so it can be used in small portions and quickly.

Once everything was patched, I easily removed the high spots on the body filler using a paint scraper. Then sand the top, front edge and rounded corners with 60-grit sandpaper. The damage to the surface helps the epoxy bond with the old tip.

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Epoxy is really messy. Tape the plastic tape to the floor under the counter. Then slide the plastic on the cabinet, put it under the front edge of the counter, put it on the toe and tape it to the plastic on the floor. For the sink opening, tape plastic tape to the underside of the counter to hold the epoxy. Remove the mask from the wall, leaving about 1/8 inch. space above the counter. In the end, I put cardboard under the counters to collect the drips.

After you start applying the primer to the counters, you can move. If you have to stop to search or run to the store, you will be in trouble. So, organize and organize everything you need from now on.

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First create a perfect surface for the epoxy to apply. Mix the primer two parts in a small bucket, cut into the corners with a brush and roll on the countertops. If you notice that the old counter paint is showing through, apply another primer while it’s still wet.

The primer takes about an hour to become tacky. While waiting, mix the metal powder into part A of the epoxy highlighter. Do not mix part A with part B until you are ready; install only 15 minutes in the bucket. You may also want to mix the metal powder with isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle for later use.

After about an hour, after the primer is tacky but won’t leave a residue when touched with gloves, you can mix the epoxy base coat. The trick to mixing the epoxy thoroughly and avoiding soft spots is to use two buckets. Pour the two parts into one bucket, mix with a mixing paddle for a minute or two, then pour the mixed epoxy into a new bucket and mix for another minute or two. Pour enough down the center of the countertop to cover the entire surface, then spread it out with a roller. At this point, keep the puddle of epoxy on top of the counter, but it can go to the corner and near the corner. The goal is to create an even layer of about 1/8 inch across the entire counter.

Pour a thin line of the remaining epoxy along the edge of the counter. While the roller arm is still full, roll the front edge of the counter, then gently push a thin line of epoxy over the edge. Make sure the base coat is the same thickness as the top; if not, move or pour more epoxy. Once the base coat is on, it’s time to fully blend the lights, just like you did with the base coat.

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Tasting the highlights is fun, but don’t overdo it. You can always add more; you can’t take them. After mixing the highlights, use a combination of pouring from the mixing bowl and dripping from the stirring stick to create veins on the counter.

Coat the strands in the base coat by dragging the brush across the top. Follow with highlights and dab brushes to give a natural look. If you coat with epoxy, the highlights will blend into the base coat instead of coming out. After waiting for the epoxy to set a bit, I found I could wash it without stirring. It takes about an hour for the epoxy to set, so take your time with this step.

Spray the counter with a solution of isopropyl alcohol and metal powder. It works like magic: the solution disperses the epoxy and gives it a more natural look. I did a few rounds of this and also made sure to spray the front edge. You can always rework the epoxy and spray again.

You should keep the counter for a while after you think it’s done. Look for the depression that is starting to form and fill it with a few drops of the remaining epoxy. As the drops formed under the front corner, scrape with a stirring stick. Look for dust or bugs that have fallen into the coating and remove them with a skewer or tweezers. After about an hour of installation, remove the masking on the back panel and wait a day for the epoxy to set. DIY Solid Surface Panel

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The next day you will prepare the counter for the protective top coat; ideally this should be about 20 hours after pouring so that the topcoat forms a chemical bond with the still uncured epoxy. Go around the counter and sand the pieces of dust you find with 220 grit sandpaper. Check the bottom edge for drips and sand with 80 grit sandpaper. Dust the top and wipe it with denatured alcohol.

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Mix the two-part topcoat in a container and apply a thick layer to the surface. Quickly apply the topcoat, then slowly rotate the entire surface in one direction. Start at the backsplash and pull the roller to the front edge, working your way around the counter. It will take at least a week to cure the counters, but once done, they will withstand the scratches and scuffs of normal kitchen use.

We no longer support IE (Internet Explorer) as we strive to provide a web page experience for browsers that support new web standards and security practices. Countertops can be one of the most expensive parts of a kitchen, laundry or bathroom remodel. Just pay that sparkling quartz or granite and see how much it will return. many! I may have champagne taste, but I’m on a two dollar budget. Fortunately, there are plenty of DIY countertop projects that fit even the tightest of budgets. This article highlights some stunning desktop makeovers that you may want to consider before spending a fortune on custom countertops. Sekeca!

These premium wood panels straight from Fixer Upper are gorgeous! It’s the perfect way to protect your washer and dryer and add all-important storage to your laundry area.

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I love this countertop makeover because I did something similar with amazing results. I didn’t make a countertop, but I made a series of shelves. The finished product is very nice and very cheap! I love how the contact paper finish brightens this bathroom.

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Only $15? Where can I get in?! Old and boring laminate gets a cheap makeover and the result looks like stone. I’m impressed!

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